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Probably the return manifold needs replacing. Make sure the pressure relief valve and the turbine adaptor are replaced as well

Rather than put the plastic pipe into a compression fitting, I'd transition to copper using a push-fit coupling, then the compression fitting on that copper....

This might work - remove the nut and olive on this and connect to the existing nut and olive on the end of the pipe out the wall. The tap connector part can then go straight on the valve using a fibre washer to seal...

I'd go with 22mm to the first pair of tees on your diagram, then 15mm from there on.

This is a new install? They may have left an electrical link in the boiler that should have been removed when the system controls were connected. Had this loads of times on new builds too where the electricians don't have a clue with boilers!

How big is you heating system, how many radiators? What's the 'head' of the system above the boiler i.e are you in a bungalow, or boiler in attic, or boiler on ground floor of a 3 storey? Initial charge of 1 bar may be a little high. If you precharge the EV to say, 0.7 bar, then fill system to...

People who indicate right approaching roundabouts but go straight ahead! Seems to be a regular thing now

BG may have rated it to 10kw because that's what your house needs and because of the limitations of the gas supply. I think with the boiler you have, this would be done by physically adjusting a potentiometer on the boiler's circuit board. They would then put a sticker on the PCB saying 'do not...

Just to mention that it's unlikely that PTFE is required at that connection anyway - normally it's a fibre washer.

They last around 4/5 years. It should have a strip down service at least that often if not more, and the seal replaced each time. Sometimes new electrodes along with it. Every year, as part if it's service, your engineer should test around the top of the heat exchanger with an analyser to make...

Then you'd need one of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-hose-1-2-x-1-2-x-300mm/2257g

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-15mm-x-1-2-x-300mm/6768g

There should be timer for your hot water as well! The boiler is likely a system boiler - the hot water control knob on the boiler is redundant - Worcester just use the same fascia as they do on their combis. The temperature of the water going into your floor will be reduced at the ufh...

I guess I could use screws with these washers:

My flat roof needs replacing and I'm going to install a warm roof. A friend of mine who is a roofer would prefer to use torch on felt, but that leaves me wondering what fixings to use to secure the thick 'sandwich' of OSB and insulation - I'd prefer the plastic tube type where the screw ends up...

In my opinion out of the wall always looks better, but involves more work in channeling the pipework in the walls and making good / retiling.

You don't remove the screw and cover but rather turn the whole thing a quarter turn - with the slot vertical the valve is open, horizontal and the valve is closed. Designed to be turned with a spanner. Also worth checking - do you have thermostatic valves on all your radiators? Are they turned up?