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Will probably go with the Zappi. I wish the CU was that close - I have to have a cable installed from inside the house, down the garden to our driveway - 35 metres of armoured cable plus ethernet....

I emailed Project and they sent me this. So I think I'll go for a the Zappi or Ohme as they're already set up for intelligent charging. Is there much to choose between them charger or app wise?

VW ID Buzz Cargo

My installer is recommending a Project Apex EV charger and reassures me it's compatible with Octopus. Does anyone have experience with these chargers and using them with Intelligent Octopus Go? Am I better asking for a Myenergi Zappi? Many thanks

Have you considered an unvented cylinder? Along with an accumulator if need be? Depends on your incoming mains pressure, flow rate, space available, and budget!

Hi all, I will shortly be building a workshop at the end of my drive which is at the bottom of my back garden. So I'll need power for the workshop, and will also be gtting an EV charger fitted (7kw). I will need to get an armoured cable in ready - from the CU in the house to the workshop is c...

+ fitting a new cylinder with a solar coil and immersion heater gives you future options - heating your hot water during the summer months using solar panels etc

Yes a check valve built in, otherwise you wouldn't be able to remove the key. They can be a beggar to remove

You can replace it by turning off the 2 isolation valves on the brass valves behind (mains inlet and central heating return), removing the grub screws with an Allen key (should be 4 altogether). Silicone grease on the o rings on fitting the new one...

If it's leaking from the mains side i.e. the isolation valve with the square white knob is 'passing', it'll slowly pass water across to the heating side if the white key is left in. The white key forms a channel between the 2 sides (water passes across between the o rings on the key). Being in...

From your description one or more of the zone valves have been wired incorrectly. The controls should operate the motor of the valve (brown wire live, blue neutral). When fully opened there is a switch inside the valve head that operates. This in effect which connects the grey wire to the...

So long as the valves, including the trv, do turn off fully. I use a rubble sack (with no holes in) to catch any water - you can place it underneath and around the valve to rad connection. Depending on how long the job will take, you could open the bleed screw to allow the rad to fuu'y drain...

From the pic it looks like the HE with the additional heat exchanger top right of the case. They are a condensing boiler but they don't condense a lot! Overall a pretty good boiler and reliable but at the age they're getting to now, expect the need to change some parts as time goes by

Have you got decent flow and pressure to your house? If so, I would consider an unvented (mains pressure) hot water cylinder instead, and do away with the storage tank and shower pump.

If your hot water cylinder is mains pressure (unvented), there will be a filter inside the pressure reducing valve - would be worth getting that checked. Also the expansion vessel connected to it may need checking - it can give you an initial surge of water at a greater pressure and flow, but...

Check out the following websites: Ty Mawr lime Eden hot lime Womersleys On Facebook: The traditional lime plastering forum In the lime

Do you have any problems with damp? There shouldn't be any cement render or pointing on a solid wall. It needs to 'breathe' i.e. be water vapour permeable. - ideally the cement render would be removed along with any cement pointing, then repointed and rendered using mortar made from hot lime...