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Oooh, now there's an interesting solution, half way between concreting it in and the metal post idea...

True, but I've not seen the rounded posts at our local timber merchant (Champion Timber Guildford - happy to try others if anyone has a recommendation). Though I have just discovered that the kit isn't pre-drilled so full DIY is now a more viable option if I can do it within budget as it...

How deep? any more than 6" will reduce the height too much but I don't think 6" will be enough for it to be sound. My soil is too sandy to be secure on its own, it would need to be concreted otherwise when the wind blows it'll end up down the garden taking the plants with it. Simples if I...

Hi Guys, I'm thinking about getting one of these jobbies http://www.edecks.co.uk/shop/product.aspx?pid=2053 but I'm a bit concerned about how to anchor the posts. My first thought was to concrete them in, but then I wondered how deep they would need to go. Other posts on here...

Oh, ok, I found the cracks gave me less hassle to fill neatly than the raw paint edges! I guess you're right about re-plastering, but there's just so much else to do and so little cash (I'm not ready to DIY Plaster yet). I'll stick with this for now and then I'll re-plaster next time I decorate.

I think people feel safer with a big name, it's also a convenience and laziness factor. It's like asking why people go to Tesco's, Sainsbury's, Asda etc rather than going to their local butcher, baker, grocer and store. They know the product will probably be better if they go local, they...

Yup, it's all still intact, as soon as I saw it I figured that it was something to be left well alone. It does have the advantage of being quite difficult to cut through by accident. :) It turned out that it wasn't as bad as it first looked. While the cracks were in the plaster they were...

They appear to be joined by bits of hessian in the plaster.... I don't know if this is right or just a very old fashioned way of doing things.... either way I figured I'd give it a go. I've chipped off the loosest bits of paint and filled the joins to the plaster. I'll sand it down when it's...

Basically I had the standard problem of cracks along the lines of the plaster board. My plan was to take the route of gouge them out and fill with flexible filler then repaint the entire ceiling. However, as I started to remove the mountain-like paint around the chips I've discovered that...

Basically you're correct, it is laid like a hardwood floor but bamboo has slightly different properties, especially if you get the woven sort which is set in resin. Interestingly enough bamboo is actually a grass and suffers less from water ingress problems. I've been soaking a tester piece...

Sorry netiquette is divided on that subject, will remember in future which side of the fence this forum falls. :) (my own fault for not checking in the rules first)

I'm going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one because my question is very similar. I'm laying tongue and groove solid bamboo flooring in my bathroom and want to know what the advantages are of putting the toilet in first vs putting the bamboo in first. As far as I see...

My bad for ambiguous typing. It is the GGF which backs the 10 year guarantee in the event that the company closes (for whatever reason). I'm not sure about the independent inspector bit, I was investigating this for my fire door issue. According to my local council they check the plans and...

My local guy is http://www.cristalwindows.co.uk/ but as I say, I've not had them fitted yet so I'm not guaranteeing them until I've seen the results (they're coming tomorrow!) They're based in fleet so slough might be within his remit but I'm not certain. You can find a local Rehau fitter...

I'm having a local (Surrey/Hants) chap do mine - quote was more competitive than the nationals and he's fitting Rehau Energy A grade windows (with toughened glass due to height, but I can't remember if this was standard) and a Benchmark composite front door, both seem to be of good quality...

Just re-read and better understood... the barrier only needs to be on the garage side! Hmm, will have to see if I can open into the house or not, otherwise I could do a large C shape to allow the door to open within it. Whatever I do I'm going to trip over it all the time - I know...

Ok, if I understand you correctly you're suggesting a C shape step around the door and using a normal sized door. I can do this on the garage side but I can't on the house side as the door is going to be directly opposite my front door and therefore wont allow it open. Nice thinking outside...

By the time the different national companies had all left and re-contacted me with their final price there wasn't a lot between them.

Have a look on check-a-trade http://www.checkatrade.com and whoever you go with make sure they're accredited by the GGF ( http://www.ggf.org.uk/ ) or equivalent. When I was looking round I spoke to most of the big nationals and a couple of local firms. The difference in price was astounding...

Hi guys, I've been using this forum for ages, but for once my question hasn't already been answered (or at least not that I can find via the search). I'm in a first floor maisonette and my ground level entrance is at the back of the adjoining garage. There's a single layer breeze block...