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The cold water flow from the mixer tap seems OK. I have isolation valves but not flexible hoses and so do not have the ability to easily swap the pipes.

The boiler is a Worcester-Bosch 28 SiII. The flow rate from the hot kitchen tap is approximately 2.3 litres per minute.

The kitchen tap is a mixer tap. The hot flow in the kitchen is noticably less than in the bathroom. I haven't timed it for a specified volume though I can do this at the weekend (I'm writing this at work). The cold flow in the kitchen is OK. The hot water in the kitchen when the heating is...

My combi boiler does not respond to the hot tap in my kitchen when my central heating is off. It responds slowly when the central heating is on. So in order to wash the dishes, I need to make sure the heating is on. The pressure from the tap generally feels low. I have no problems with the...

Thanks for the replies. I bought a Fluidmaster flush valve and new inlet valve for good measure. Flush valve works perfectly and I can't believe how quiet the inlet valve is (or how noisy my old one was). You get what you pay for !

I recently replaced the flush valve in my cistern because the previous one (pretty old) began leaking a constant trickle of water from the cistern into the pan. I bought a fairly standard one from Wickes (push-button dual flush with a cable, internal overflow) but, having fitted it, it appears...

Yes, I do mean ceiling. What do you mean by floor/ceiling ?

I wish to lower my kitchen ceiling. In doing so, I want the new ceiling joists to run at right angles to the existing joists. I propose to insert joist hangers into the walls on either side of the room and insert the new joists into these. The span of the new joists is 3 metres. What...

That's reassuring. Thanks for the response.

Can a polyurethane finish (specifically Bonkemi spectra) be applied over a coat of Danish oil ? I want to finish a pine floor with the lacquer but the boards may need some tinting before finishing and I thought the Danish oil would darken them by just enough. Danish oil can, after all, be used...

Whilst looking at the range of softwood internal doors in the likes of B&Q, Wickes etc.., I noticed that the finishing instructions not only state that the doors can be painted or varnished, but also clearly state that they "are not suitable for finishing with waxes or oils". Anyone know why...

Whilst looking at the range of softwood internal doors in the likes of B&Q, Wickes etc.., I noticed that the finishing instructions not only state that the doors can be painted or varnished, but also clearly state that they "are not suitable for finishing with waxes or oils". Some are more...

Thank you both for your quick replies.

Wish to install a T4 strip light under a kitchen unit connected to the mains and operated by an existing light switch (essentially, I am extending an existing circuit). I cannot connect the mains cable directly to the light; instead, the light has a short length of flex to which I need to...

Can I apply gloss paint (oil-based) on top of: a) Varnish (both water and solvent based) ? b) Danish oil ? without completely removing the original finishes ? What sort of preparation is required - just a light sanding or primers/undercoats etc… ?

Yes, either with plaster sealer or with diluted emulsion depending on what I had available at the time.

Thanks Richard. Softus, I'm minded to do that anyway. After all, it can't do any harm, can it ? Precisely what do you mean by "serious" ? Should I just scratch the paint with a brush or cut into the plaster with a knife ?

Thanks both of you for your replies. I'm reassured. Just to be clear. In the light of my plasterer suggesting undiluted PVA, when you state 3:1, 4:1 or 5:1, do you mean 5 PVA to 1 water or 5 water to 1 PVA ?

I wish to skim over a wall which currently has several coats of emulsion on it. Plasterer suggested that I coat the surface with PVA (he suggested undiluted !). He will then apply another coat of PVA immediately prior to applying the skim. Is this sufficient preparation to prevent the skim...

Thanks to both of you for your comments. Clearly, applying linseed oil isn't as straightforward as I had naively assumed. If I am able to remove the glossy film and start again, can I then apply a different type of oil (e.g. danish or tung) or must I keep using linseed ?