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Definitely don't mean iso valves. Step 1 here: https://www.bristan.com/product-files/547144/fitting-instructions.pdf The white insert bits look like this...

Hi, I got a new kitchen tap recently and it came with what the instructions call 'Check Valves' - these ones are 15mm compression one end and male flexible tap connector the other end (the tap connector end has the white insert bit). I understand what these do but I can't quite find the right...

But looking at loads of different brands they all look to have the same design.

Well this time the pipe end (nut bit) can actually push back past its collar (if that's the right word) so when the actual pipe bends to its direction, it seems to want to pull out of the connection.

Hi, Is there a difference in quality between them? I've always used Screwfix ones but the last one keeps weeping. I see some claim "high quality" at 3 times the price. Which I don't mind paying if there really is a difference. What brand do kitchen fitters/plumbers generally prefer? Thanks

Yeah I have the other thread (which I think you have contributed to) about reducing the flow rate at each point of use (not at the stopcock)! So seems like that's the simpler method.

Although that said, are longer (e.g. 300mm) tails really that bad? From bottom of tap to end of pipe is basically 225mm and this seems to be the standard tail length.

Yeah that's the ticket. That long one in @Madrab second picture is perfect as I can cut each end to suit. I forgot to say in OP that I need enough length to get compression fit since one end will be in the iso valve and the tail end will have a suitable compression fitting. I did search for...

Hi, Can you get short pre made copper pieces, specifically "cranked"? I need to change my kitchen tap but at the moment the tap tails are literally stretched to max since my sink bowl is really deep so extending straight up is a no go. I have space behind the sink to fit a bit of cranked pipe...

My default idea was a standard cam lock. But can't find a thumb turn one of the right length - either just to short or really too long (don't want it sticking out too much)

Hey, Trying to think of a creative and slick way to keep a loft hatch stayed. I don't want anything surface mounted on the frame or door (except actual handle), since I just have a bad habit of catching skin and clothes on them. E.g. not these: My material thickness is 18mm, but I have a...

I'm absolutely open to options. However in some locations the pipes (and so values) are close together so some of the bigger body options will be tricky, if not impossible without reworking the pipework. Those insert options can be retro'd into the existing iso valves.

Yeah that's what I tried already but as mentioned the noise through the valve is really bad. I'll try and record it!

Has anyone used these to reduce the flow? Are they any good? I have really good flow, literally too good. But don't want to throttle at the stop cock because I want all that good flow for the shower. So was thinking of putting these on the bathroom and kitchen tap isolation points. If I try and...

Yeah I've seen those. Do you have yours the hinge side of the jamb, so that the hinge side of the door pushes it in as closing?

Yeah I know - the "PIR" would be for the door itself, not human movement.

Hi, I have my loft light switch on the landing, in a 4 gang switch. The number of times people randomly press switches until the right light comes on means the loft light usually gets left on. I have a trap door (drop down) style loft hatch and am considering moving the light switch to...

PS: I'm going to be using stops like in a normal door, so a push click equivalent won't work. My opening is 700mm x 700mm so door size will be around 694-696mm

I was originally going to use normal cabinet hinges with one of these to lock closed, but now I'm thinking if it's possible to have a solution that self stays in place (the "Stays and Lifts" terminology in that Blum option) - would they be strong enough?

Ikea use those hinges for their Metod range of kitchen lift up wall units - I use them for overbed cupboards