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:whistle: 25 years later, I can finally fill up the system without having to run up and down the stairs like a lunatic!

Just for completeness, I finally got around to fiddling, and the valve pictured is a double check valve with a test port in the middle. The other two ports hold the springs. Therefore, have to tee in a pressure gauge rather than using one of the ports as I'd originally hoped.

I think this is the answer: http://www.wras.co.uk/List_printer_all.asp see Schedule 2 paragraph 15(5) It says as long as they are at max distance apart of twice the bore size.

From a regs point of view, is it acceptable to fit two single check valves in line instead of a double check valve? It was a royal pain in the butt to down tools to go and buy one when I thought I must have a double in amongst my clobber. Then to add insult to injury I ran out of reducers...

I'll have a fiddle the next time I drain down the system!

Another atupid question... how does one use the port to test whether the valve is working?! :?:

Guys, Can anybody tell me whether this a check valve on the fill loop. It's getting on 25 years old but still works fine. What are the ports for? One is capped TEST, would that be pressure test and, therefore, could I install a pressure gauge there as the pressure gauge currently resides on top...

Just pixs of stuff relating to forum,

Thanks for reply. Additional sole circuit for immersion not podsible without major flooring disruption. I'm going to have to split supplying 4mm cable into two FCUs - 13A for immersion and 5A for heating components.

Finally getting around to tidying up the yeehaw dog's dinner wiring of the central heating system left by installer some twenty four years ago! My question is whether each item/device/appliance is required to have its own independent isolation. CU has 16A MCB for the heating system. An FCU on...

Done fair amount of searching but not come across anybody asking similar question previously. Currently have a knackered window/sidelight in a timber frame beside a timber front door (in a timber frame, obviously). I need to replace the sidelight but was thinking of doing it in uPVC. I would...

As long as it's protected by a 30mA RCD. Bit stuck on that too - fed off lighting ciruit and no earth on that (skimpy Wimpey house). Back to the original 150mm SELV me thinks.

LoL Nice one!

I was intrigued about alternatives. Existing old fan is 200mm and makes a racket anyway but not an issue for neighbours being a detached house. 53dB @ 3m is fairly loud thou lol!

It's an externally mounted extractor so the motor/fan is on the outside. There's no reason why it wouldn't pull air from in to out as long as the blades are spinning in the correct direction.

Here's an interesting one - I think... I have a bathroom fan in zone 1 that was fitted decades ago which is getting near retirement. Obviously, I'd have to replace it with a SELV now but what are the regs pertaining to one of these?! Technically, the fan wouldn't be in zone1.

Good tip on the drain hole. I'll put a little mesh to prevent any creepy crawlies ingress. IMHO (and it's just a personal opinion from experience - i.e. don't want to offend anyone), Hammerite is rubbish. I'd rather leave it as is. If going for surface treatment for longevity then I'd use...

Need to get some cat5 from side of the house to the other. Downstairs is concrete floor and there's no possibility of taking up all necessary floorboards upstairs. Therefore, am going via loft and straight drop down. House is detached and planned conduit drop is an easterly wall, on a side of...