Search results

Thanks matt1e. This morning, the CH gods are smiling and my system operates correctly despite not changing anything since my last post. However I know that this will not last, so I have made measurements of the working system below in its various states. When it fails again I will post...

Thanks everyone. It seems the wiring is as per snb's post. That black wire in the grey 3-core must be to the programmer. I can't get the front off the programmer to confirm what goes where due to tight positioning of the boiler cupboard but assume it must be so (boiler is right above the...

Thanks Hugh that's a very instructive animation of Y plan. I see Mick's point now about that black wire in the "grey 3 core" connected to the grey on the diverter. It should be going to a programmer on HW off, right? I wonder if reality will match the diagram.

Hi Mick, Thanks for your reply. I don't know where that grey core (my typo, I meant "grey 3 core") goes... is there a secondary junction box somewhere I've missed, maybe the grey and black wires within that 3 core are split in there - one to boiler, one to programmer? I'll try to take the...

Hi I'm having some difficulties with my heating. The CH will not work unless HW is also called for. I've had british gas out twice (on contract) to look at it, and twice they changed the powerhead on the Honeywell diverter valve in the airing cupboard. This seems to fix the problem but...

Thanks for all the tips, and those links. If I can't get my current board working in some kind of setup I will look into those. Yes the motor does run at lower voltages, the tech is so old (40s) I'm not sure they had pulsing DC to change motor speed then - even if it is a better way to...

I have a question for any DIY electronics hobbyists. Sorry please hold the flames if this is off topic as I realise most of the forum is about mains installations/electrics. But I guess there's a chance someone might be into this. Background: I have an old 1940s train set running off a...

Awesome reply ChrisR thanks for all the detail! That thermostat photo you posted is what I have almost exactly. The tin box in the airing cupboard does indeed have Honeywell on it - I assume this is what you mean (i.e. the tin box is the wired box on pipes that isn't the pump?) I'll poke...

Hi, I'm looking to replace my Honeywell dial thermostat with a Heatmiser touchscreen thermostat PRT-TS. It can be bought with "standard" or "changeover" wiring. I would like to know which wiring type to buy? Old...

Fair enough :oops:

Hi Wayne61 I had a similar requirement and bought this switch from B&Q (it is a weatherproof one). It is also rated 20A http://nextday.diy.com/app/jsp/product/productPage.jsp?productId=54649 The neon is "customer configurable". You can make it light when the switch is off, or on. I...

Ok thanks all :D

Thanks guys - actually I got the spark to check it when he did the PIR. He put a meter across it and read an open circuit - told me it was definitely duff. So I guess I'll have a go changing it. Couple of mentions of the stat - but the immersion heater has no stat (that I can see?) it...

I moved into my new place - got a welcome note from previous owners, noting: "unfortunately must inform you immersion heater is broken and element is sadly of the non-replacable type". :( On moving in had a PIR done on electrics - all passed, but as you can see in the pic below, the heater...

At first glance I thought this too. However the gas incoming is on the left. It comes along a fairly long pipe running out of shot horizontaly beneath the CU, where the shut-off is also located. The righthand side with the earth bonding on it exits the meter and goes back under the concrete to...

Thanks all :D :D

Pictures hot off the press! @spark123: No pipework, metalwork etc. only the metal up and over door at opposite end of garage. Yes I'm aware thanks. So, to rod or not?