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see www.floorprotection.co.uk

without any more info, I would guess that the pine is of a fast growing type therefore cheaper type. It sounds as though it has been poorly kilned and that the wood is shrinking. Are there gaps between the boards. As a solutiopn you will probably have to remove loose knotrs and fill. What does...

NWFA BWFA TRADA

"Interface" is where the wood and the subfloor come into contact and is the same max surface temperature of the subfloor

These are standard requirements and conditions throughout the wood flooring industry. Check with any wood flooring manufacturer and you will get the same temperature requirement +/- 1 degree.

In our terms and conditions we specify that there should be sensors set within the surface of the floor to cut of the system if it goes above 27 degrees. 27 degrees is the optimum level at which oak ( I know oak best) and many other species achieves a balance with the atmospheric humidity within...

If the high spots are latex and not sand/cement screed then your angle grinder should level small areas successfully. Try smoothing before removing. But I agree about the dust.

I fully agree with all comments. If you use a 20mm then the heat will get through but it will take longer. Once there its the same. Do not forget that you must not exceed 27 degrees c at the interface between the wood floor and the sub floor.

I do not know what the effect of the heat mat would be on the old adhesive. May smell a bit if it gets warm.

I would guess that this is an old warehouse or garage type floor which almost certainly will not have a membrane. Look at www.ardex.co.uk for a product that is suitable to level this floor which must be clean before you start. Then apply a surface paint on dpm which may need another skim of...

If the floor is out by 1 cm across an area of 20cms that is quite bad. It is possibly a job for a proffessional as floor grinding requires tools that are not available to hire as far as i am aware. Also that is quite a lot to be brought up with a leveling compound. The underlay that you are...

What species of pine has been used? What was the moisture content at time of laying and what is it now? Your supplier should be able to tell you this. What general purpose cleaner did you use? How did you wash them, damp mop or wash and how long did you allow the floor to dry?

Never heard nof it but get it in writing that it will bond to bitumen adhesive cos if it fails you got a major problem. Gluing down ply is not an option as the glue will frail.

UHF should be no problem. Whether to glue down or float??? We have sold plenty of 10mm which has been glued down but it depends on how level the subfloor is. I would reccomend a flexible adhesive such as Rewmar polymer or Sikkens T 5 something which can give some leveling help although this is...

Isn't it odd that mac391 can only make a point by insulting others, me ,audiveo, howdens. Still, perhaps he's a God :lol:

Unless you want to cover the whole floor (which is not necessary) decide on your flooring and have your kitchen installed with the levels in mind. In other words allow for the floor and set your heights accordingly. Have your floor installed after the kitchen. If you decide to install it first...

Correct. There is no stabiliser. Do not expect latex screed to bond to the subfloor if there is any trace of old adhesive. I would scarify this until it is gone. The strength of the oak when it moves in expansion and contraction will pull up the screed and you will have floor boards stuck to...

Sounds from what you say that your builders done a bad job. To lay a wood floor the variation must not be more than 2mm over a 1mtr run, so no you cannot lay wood YET. There are ways of levelling but for this degree I would advise using a proffesional. If you want more info on levelling look at...

I don't know the flooring but presume its standard type. I would go with the dpm. either built into the underlay, something like ball and youngs woodlay or a sheet of 2000 gauge dpm polythene. The underlays the easiest bet.