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What about wireless switches instead?

Yes I do have two different circuits for upstairs and downstairs as per the MCB's in the consumer unit. I don't have LED downlights in the hallway just LED bulbs. Are there any touch switches with a similar design that are built for the UK market? Would something like this work...

The upstairs switch controls the upstairs landing light and one of the lights in the hallway downstairs. The 3 gang switch in the hallway downstairs controls the two downstairs hallway lights and the upstairs landing light. So even if I buy a three gang switch of the same make for downstairs it...

I understand now as I can see the diagonal line on the old switch separating the coms from the 1WAYS and 2WAYS. How do the these connections map to the new switch? If we call them com1, 2way1 and 1way1 and com2, 2way2 and 1way2 what connections (ie L, L1, L2 and 2WAY) do they map to?

Do I need to upgrade the old 3 gang hallway light switch downstairs for this to work as the instructions say "BSEED Brand 2 Way Light Switch Can Only Work Together With The Same Brand 2 Way Light Switch. It Can Not Match With Other Brand's Switch"?

Hoping someone can help. I'm changing an old 2 gang 2 way switch in the upstairs landing for a touch switch but the terminal connections are different. The old one has 6 terminals, 3 on the top and bottom labelled COM, 1 WAY and 2 WAY. However, the new touch switch just has four terminals, 2...

There's wires in the side closest to the PCB but none in the other side.

I meant the Nest E as the boiler is fitted inside a kitchen cupboard so no room to install a receiver next to it. In terms of wiring at the boiler end, what do I need to check?

Morning, hoping someone can help. I've got a Tower wall thermostat that is not working and have been thinking about upgrading to a Google Nest smart thermostat. I have a Potterton Titanium 28 combi boiler. Is Google Nest compatible and a straight swap?

Anyone?

Can anyone give me some advice as I have a Victorian Bay Window that is pulling away from the wall and looks like the wooden plate is rotten. What's the best way of repairing this and supporting the brickwork above whilst the repair is carried out. I have acrows and strongboys and scaffolding up...

I can't fit another row of tiles as the butterfly roof valley discharges into the box gutter and then slopes to a lead hopper at the end. I've replaced the wall plates and am fitting a uPVC fascia. Then repairing the lead and cromapolling the whole length

Have you got any experience of using lead replacement products to form the gutter like Rooftec Flex? Thinking it might be easier for me install as a diyer by taking off a few courses of the tiles first.

I have an old lead box gutter that has splits in it and is no longer fit for purpose. What is the best thing for a diyer to replace it with? I'll already ripped out the old wood that the lead was sitting on and will be replacing that aswell.

Did you complete the work as I'm interested in this?

Thanks for all your help and info. I went for a Viessmann Vitodens 100-W 35kw and I'm over the moon with it. I managed to negotiate a Nest thermostat so can control it using Alexa. No problems with the pressure and shower is far more powerful than before now it's on mains pressure!

I've had the flow rate and pressure checked again....14 litres per minute and 4 bar of pressure. Is this good enough for a combi in the loft? I've checked the regular boiler in the loft and it's a 2009 Worcester Bosch Greenstar 15ri so only 15kw and is only rated for 10 radiators. I've got 13...