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i wish i could get it here :(

really? i thought you guys put that stuff on much thicker. what are the 6mm beads for then? bonding + multi?

yup sink it, iirc, 2 coats of multi-finish (which is what you'd be doing or having done in the uk) come out at about 6mm. (generally 3-4mm for the 1st coat and 2-3mm for the 2nd).

i saw a painter today (not one of mine) mixing primer into the paint (trade matt) he was about to use on the inside of a garage which already had a couple of very pi**y coats applied some time ago. he vanished before i got a chance to ask him about it and left his boys swinging rollers...

it's not limewash, it's very cheap pva based trade matt. where a wall has been painted with that stuff it has a good key (skimmed walls are never painted with it) the question is whether it needs PVAing or not if you want to skim over it. conventional wisdom would say yes but my gut says no...

hmmm, ok here's a question. we have a paint here called hydrochroma...it's pretty similar to dulux supermatt afaict. it has a pva based co-polymer, and zero stain resistance and washability (not sure if supermatt is the same in that respect), ie: if you wet it, it goes back into solution and...

only the mods can update it. you could start a thread (like this) for new stuff to go in the sticky, have a bun fight about it, then contact the mods once there is a rough consensus. $0.02

they're the babies, and your grout joints should be 4-5mm. 3mm or lower is pushing your luck imo. use a flexible adhesive and a flexible grout. tell the tile shop it's for UFH and they'll sort you out.

there are 2 problems, 1 is the beads, the other is the blown render which is the one i was talking about. i don't stop selling houses in the winter either, and we normally get harsher winters where i am than a lot of the uk does. that doesn't mean i get to shrug my shoulders and ignore what...

yes, you buy these and put them above all the screed joints. if it's a diy job you want to do this as cheaply as possible, you can use coloured (to match the grout) silicone in the gaps over the screed joints instead of off the shelf profiles like that, but the joints between your tiles...

not sure. it makes sense but something makes me hesitate to say yes. where is this anyway? for a shop/office type installation, you'd normally just have expansion profiles in the same place as your screed joints...this type of thing: http://www.schluter.com/4_18_dilex_akws.aspx

unless there is a uk building reg which states otherwise, you can render directly onto SIP or ICF, normally with fibreglass mesh.

you *can* stick straight to the screed but for a large slab, you'd need to have expansion joints in the same places as the screed has them. some kind of ditra type decoupling membrane would be better in that case.

i don't see why it would affect the corrosion issue but winter is an unacceptable time to be rendering and could very well be the cause of the blown render on your house. it's possibly more of an issue here (or not?) since we're using cement/lime/sand render, afaict most uk rendering is just...

bloody hell, it looks even worse than it did before with the original pics. if it was me, i'd have the whole thing stripped then i'd have him in court for the cost of your tiles + cost of someone to rip it all out and re-prep for a proper tiler. i honestly couldn't give a flat away with a...

4 weeks, no primer.

that's stunning. i can (and have) gotten far better work than that, paying 10 euros per m2 to a monkey who fell off the last truck out of albania and i'd honestly expect most competent DIYers to do better on their first shot at tiling tbh. personally i'd get someone else in to fix the lot...

i don't see that working out tbh. if it doesn't, i'd find a fibrous plaster monkey, pick some coving from them, and have them cast the curved part in place. $0.02

render needs at least 4 weeks to cure before you paint it. i prefer to leave it for 6 where possible depending on weather, but i'll not let a painter near it within 4. if you don't have the weather on your side by then you should wait until spring.

awesome. my local yard would've delivered by the time you'd left the first b&q...