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Thanks Sparkwright. The last lot of fence painting I did was a real bust, didn't even last the year, and I have not painted a fence since as it seemed pointless. Must have used the non-preservative kind, I can't remember now. But the preservative kind sounds like something I can slosh about.

I need to mention the scale of the problem - I have 35 shelves 120x44cm MDF, both sides to treat that's 37sqm. Just washing off the mould is going to be a task! I have no worries about esthetics, the bare MDF looked fine until it sprouted fur. If it just looked funny I would leave it, but move...

Yes, just the MDF. But no sagging. It is on a steel rack system, supported around all edges and in the middle, you know the free-standing shelf units sold everywhere now. Works great except for the mould.

Yes I know how lack of air movement can allow condensation and then mildew to form, but my garage is pretty drafty. It is not just mouldy in the corners, in fact where items have shielded the shelves (and limits air movement if anything) there is less mould. We get a lot of mists, called...

Last summer I fitted out the garage with lots of metal frame shelving units, with 5mm MDF as the shelves. The garage has no leaks etc., but is unheated and it has been a damp winter. Just discovered that all the bare MDF has grown horrendous black and green mould. The undersides of the shelves...

Mold spores are always in the air, just needing moist surface conditions to florish, no reason to blame the clients furniture at all. Sounds like the bedroom had simply not dried out, and was not sufficiently ventilated. Once established mold can come back really easily, need to sertilise and...

OK, here's the outcome (for anyone with a similar project). Opted for Zinsser 123 as primer sealer for the stained doors (going to use the same on the raw timber). First coat seemed to reactivate the 15 year old wood stain in a few places, much to my surprize got some yellowish streaks...

Thanks guys. I have heard how great Zinsser is but feel a bit confused by their product choices. The doors are stained, the wipe on stuff from years ago so very stable, but not varnished. Do I need BIN, 1-2-3 or would (the cheaper) Cover-Stain do the job?

I am going to be painting 12 pine louvre cupboard doors, some previously stained "aged pine" orange with spirit based Ronseal many years ago, others are new naked timber. SWMBO says that they will all look better white. Any advice please on making a good job? I would prefer to use water based...

Can anyone recommend a supplier of pine furniture board for a reasonable price? Need quite a bit to make some bespoke cabinets/bookcases to match and extend others already in place. The shipping on online sources I have found so far is preclusive, so looking for somewhere in South West.

Yes there is. The building regulations approved document part F (ventilation) covers this - check here: http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/buildingregulations/approveddocuments/partf/ Section 5. Covers undercuts for doors with all types of ventilation. If the new build has a mechanical...

Go for standard soft wood door sets and stops topped of with MDF archtrave and paint it. Nice oak door in a well finished painted frame looks just fine. Not only is a hardwood frame expensive but harder to install (thus higher labour costs too),

Having contructed a bed frame with planned spruce (B & Q's best!), I am wondering what to finish the bare pine with. Something quick and affordable would be nice, not too worried about the colour. Recommendations? Could I just sand it? Does it need sealing? Have some lovely but expensive Osmo...

Thanks, I think I will be going piano. The exotic hinges look interesting but the need for a jig and expense has put me off. Any issues with fitting piano hinges? Intend to screw to inner face of door and panel, short screws for the 18mm depth anything else to watch with veneered chipboard?

That is a good price, shame I'm not a trader but good to know. +1 to not killing yourself making your own!

I have white gloss Ikea doors, Mrs FP is quite fussy about them, no problems like you describe in them or they would have been replaced. There are issues with Ikea kitchens - cabinets go to the wall (no space for pipes), units are 40, 60, 80cm only, plinth only 8cm. But if you can design...

Just to be clear I wasn't offering to sell oak! I have sourced oak worktop as described for my own furniture projects, that was the best price I could find anywhere. For 2.8m I suspect you are going to have to join pieces, that is not hard unlike lifting big pieces of oak can be. Not sure why...

Larry, not sure how much worktop you need. Would oak at £120 for 25 x 630 x 2400mm be reasonable?

Wrong place I would say. Try Ikea, good quality and price.

I much appreciate the contributions, thanks. The panel will weigh about 5kg, possibly not as light as you were thinking. Anyone surface rather than end mounted the Zysa, barrel or sos types of hinge? What loads can they take?