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If it is like mine, you can pop the little disc with the hot cold indicator (red and blue dots on it) off using a sharp instrument in inside you will find an allen screw.... however you will probably find that the plastic sleeve that fits over the shaft which carries the handle is broken.. so...

yes, was just thinking that a non-return valve wouldn't help. As far as I can tell, the pressure wave caused by shutting the tap is travelling up the cold water inlet through the boiler to the flow switch diaphragm. Neither a NRV on the inlet nor the outlet would help would it? Surely this is...

and so it has hotly.... opened and ran all the hot taps for a while in turn to get the air out and now it doesn't happen. The bath (which is right next to the boiler) still moves the diaphragm when you really slam it off, but not enough to touch the switch, so all is good. I don't think I'll...

Just installed a new DHW flow switch and microswitch on my Potterton Puma 100 as the diaphragm was passing water and had corroded the whole thing and shorted out the boiler. Install went OK and HW works fine now, but I notice that if I open and close a cold water tap quickly then it moves the...

No way! didn't work. even tried "jumping" the compressor. No joy, just the dreaded humm. anyone want a perfectly good 4 uF capacitor?! Guess I'll be looking for a new fridge.

I had a SMEG dishwasher with a pump problem and discovered it had ingested a piece of glass which in turn had caused the pump impeller to shear off. Motor ran but no water moved. You can buy spare impellers seperately if this is your problem. Just a long shot.

Thanks. Let's hope so! I have a new capacitor on order. Motor winding resistance measurement check out as per your formulae. I've also read somewhere that the starter winding has a higher resistance than the run winding... which mine does. I took the relay off and powered up the unit...

I have a 5 year old LEC fridge with Danfoss compressor which just hums and gets hot to touch - doesn't sound like it is turning over. Compressor windings measure 44 ohms and 38 ohms and no measurable short. Capacitor is specified as 4 uF but when measured reads 1.5 uF. Hope it isn't the...

resoldering the dry joints worked great. We're back in business again.

I can see that pins 1,2 and 8 on PL8 look cracked or scorched. Actually the relay contacts look quite shiney. I'll give it a go and see where we get to. But if I end up needing a new PCB, given that the boiler is about 9 years old, is it time for a boiler rather than spend 120 pounds on a...

did some further research on this problem on this forum and seems plenty of others have had this and it was the PCB. Sure enough, removed it, turned it over and there were the blackened joints. Going to attempt the solder repair recommended here...

So now I've let it cool down a bit, resistance has gone up to 7.6 k ohms - so probably not the sensor. When I connect it back up, I hear a relay somewhere on the board go click - which I presume is a good sign? so what could the problem be? what should I check next. The trouble shoot guide...

My boiler doesn't fire up the full burner when I request CH. Read couple of posts on here and followed the trouble shoot in the manual. HW works fine, pump spinning, fan on/off after HW. Thought I'd isolated it to the CH temperature sensor. Borrowed my neighbour's Ohm meter and get 3.3 k...

We had the same problem on our Potterton Puma 100. Have had the expansion vessle changed to cure what we thought was a ruptured membrane. Problem was the plumber used the pressure releif valve to drain the boiler down so then the problem only got worse (i.e. water leaking through the PRV after...