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Basically some arse repair guy (who seems to know nothing) has come around to look at the cooker and taken off the wires to the main cooker switch. All that has happened was the metal bit on the knob had snapped off and just needed a simple replacement slipping in. (wish id done it myself now!)...

these ties look massive and span across 3 huge walls... don't know why you are talking regulations as boarding out a loft doesn't need them... I have decided just to put another 2 2x7 beams up there and fixing them to the wall at the far end and resting them on the 2 walls either side of the...

well the binders are built into the wall on one side then rest on the two walls where the stairs are.... running parallel to the binders is the partition wall between the front and back bedroom

there are 3 sets of 7 x 2.. the 2 highlighted.. then the two above and then another square frame above that made from 7x2.. I'll have a look and move the insulation... can I just deepen the joists inbetween these two highlighted beams?

they are built into the wall at one end but then rest on the wall at the other end as we are an end terrace.. I have not looked what is under the insulation as it is horrible and itchy.... the beams highlighted are about 7 x 2 inches

Also would like to add that the house is a 1930s council house.. would it really be a case of wrapping up and removing the insulation and increasing the depth of the ceiling joists and if that is the case if i just strengthen the bit inbetween the two highlighted beams would that not just weigh...

I know there are 10000s of topics regarding this already but basically I cannot find the answer to my question. What I would like to know is (please see pic) can I attach beams to the highlighted beams in this pic to create a raised storage area (would just be 2 beams with a single row of t...

firstly for asthetic reasons (can get bricks to match the house) and secondly I have never seen render last more than 5 years before starting to deteriorate. or could I just use block on both skins? Also would I have to put in a drainage channel in with cavity wall? (within the cavity to allow...

hmm do get quid a lot of that here in stoke especially where I am, (rain that is) so looks like it is going to have to be brick outer and cinder block inner.... hate rendered walls as with the rain ingress and really cold temps it blows off after a couple of years...

churchwarden is a band of baccy but I was on about my pipe... a churchwarden is a long gandalf-esque pipe :) gives a very cool smoke anywhoo back to topic

ok weather is getting better and digging this project up again... one thing I was wondering... if I was to make the garage just out of single skin 7n concrete blocks would I have to render the outside or would they be ok against the elements as they are?

how thick would be enough then for the main floor section? If i was to put in a suspended floor how far above the DPC would the floor have to be if the DPC has to be 150mm away from the ground in the first place adding suspended floor after would lose me even more height or is there another way...

all i want is a damn workshop!!! everything is made so chuffing complicated... the old garage floor was only 100mm thick and only has one crack in it after 40 years. Ive just figured builders just want too much money for what they are doing... priced up all the materials for this build and...

have had three builder over now all of whome are FMB registered with all of the bells and whistles all of whome have said that wouldnt even need reinforced concrete base so who is right :S when i mentioned about the floor cracking they said that it would be very unlikely to crack as they would...

have had a dig around (dug a trench about 2m away from the tree 1m deep) found no signs of any thick roots at all. Just a lot of thin fibrous roots. Would i have to dig deeper to find anything or should i have found the big roots?

also if i take up the original concrete base and have a dig around and find no roots would it be acceptable just to put a 2.5m linear barrier at the edge of the old foundations and as the new building is smaller just start the foundations another meter away from that?

is the risk just that the floor would crack... if so would putting in a reinforced concrete floor of about 200mm do the trick? also for the heigh of building regs does it go from the ground or ground level of the foundations? And as per my frist question what is good to use for insulation in...

see i am trying to work within the 2.4m allowed height without needing planning permission so adding a suspended floor wouldnt leave me much headroom at all. Are there nay alternatives? im 1.89m tall so no chance of squeezing in hehe

why the raft approach and not trench? the soil is heavy clay. I am quitting smoking but I do like to smoke my churchwarden every now and then. There is a crack in the existing base making me think that the birch roots have gone underneath the base, lifting it at one side and causing it to...

they should have been sealed before they were skimmed over best way would be to crack the plaster off, seal the vents and then reskim over but I would suggest leaving one of them open still and fit an open shut vent to the inside... other way would be to seal from the outside If i was doing...