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Been up and looked and getting a vent vertically on to that branch would be a pain to get 900mm above nearest window, it would have to stick up about 1500mm unsupported above gable roof. But I could run the vent at 45degrees up towards the other stack. In that case is there any point keeping...

Thanks. And the vertical section does make a run that long with two bends ok?

Like so? What length of vertical A-B do you think?

Trying to put a new bathroom right in middle of semi-detached house, on the second floor. It will have to be a 90degree pan connector and then a 4.5m horizontal run just to get to the external wall (can get a 10cm fall over the 4.5m), then the main soil stack is about another 2.2m and...

I was going to put 2" bed of mortar up to top of liner in anyway as clamp is wider than the bottom of the pot. And then a normal flaunching round the whole stack after.

It was from flexiflue, all new stainless steel. But yes I wasn't blown away by quality as all three bits were about 40 quid. How might it fail?

Lining the chimney while I have good scaffolding up on roof. I had to rebuild top of chimney and pots were off anyway. So I have gone for a top clamp on a flexible 5" /125mm stainless steel liner. Flue went in chimney pretty easy. And this top clamp seems to hold it ok. The bolts are tightened...

I've laid about 30sqm of normal 16mm underfloor heating pipe under a new concrete floor. One reel of 100m and another of about 70m. I have a new 30kW combi boiler. I read you should have a direct connection to the boiler for the UFH manifold. I have 22mm flow and return pipes quite close to...

Yes I will leave it ventilated! Perhaps with one of those C-caps on top of the stack to reduce the heat loss. Thanks everyone for the advice. I guess bricks are less waterproof than I thought.

Within the flue, but what about the void around the flue inside the chimney?

Thanks yes looks like that's it. But... so why do lined chimneys blocked with register plates at bottom not need air bricks?

Here is the stack up close from the scaffolding. George answered my main question - that moisture would get through chimney brickwork eventually so better to ventilate. But why doesn't that apply to any brick cavity wall? If we do have to keep ventilation then putting an air brick in the...

Is that true even if you cap it thoroughly? I haven't looked into it but I'm thinking Celotex at top inside flue, then some ply or slate, then dpc or lead, then a few inches of cement tapered to run water off. I've even got a spare coping stone with drip grooves I could put over it if that would...

Yes I was thinking remove pot, fill from top, then cap off. The chimney is under scaffolding with a roof (redoing whole roof) so shouldn't be any rain getting in between filling and capping.

I've got access to my chimney stack with some other roof work going on. It's a pretty standard, straight-up double chimney stack in an old house - one flue goes to ground floor and is still in use (lined with woodburner), the other flue goes to a disused fireplace in a first floor bedroom...

I'm putting in a new inspection chamber where the main soil stack from three toilets goes into a combined sewer down a narrow side passage. Due to other pipework, am fitting one of the small 300mm diameter chambers like this...

Thanks the sleeper walls are not honeycombed but I might be able to knock a few bricks out here and there to make them better. I'm going to add 75mm Celotex on galvanised nails (joists are only 100mm deep), then tape over the top and seal round the sides. Would putting in more air bricks in...

Thanks. I haven't investigated the hearth fully although the beams feel quite solid there. Would you leave the solid timbers in place or replace all with new treated timber (with 5mm shims to make up to the same height as the old true 100mm 4x2" timber). I would only consider a fan under...

Thinking about it, I think blowing warm air from the house down into the subfloor would be a bad idea. The moisture in it would condense on the colder surfaces like underside of beams in the subfloor. Perhaps just a fan under the floor to circulate the air in that part furthest from the...

Thanks very much for that. Can you put an insulated plasterboard, attached with foam glue and with a vapour barrier, over Limelite? I have now found a slate damp course in the external walls. The sleeper walls also have some basic plastic damp-course. It is a semi-detached house and think no...