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I have a "borrowed neutral" on the landing light - which I'm not best pleased about, but can live with. I recently changed the old light fitting and put a new rose in - but now can't seem to get the darned thing to work. This should work right...

My discussion with him was something like: JP: My boilers doing this weird thing... GM: checks it over for a bit I think it's probably your gas valve or thermocoupler... I can replace them if you'd like. JP: Do you think that will fix it? GM: ...that's my best assessment of the problem...

I didn't specifically pay him to replace the wrong bits!! ...you know how it is, they diagnose and recommend a repair; you either agree or disagree with them. If you agree and they do it, there's a form of verabl contract in place. Only afterwards can you gauge how well they've diagnosed...

...oh don't worry, when I said "I've replaced" I should have said, "I've paid a professional to diagnose and replace some bits that didn't need replacing"... Was looking for someone with similar experience of this occasional misfiring problem (don't want to jinx it, but it's been fine for 2...

Bump, very similar problem... Heating and hot water do work most of the time, but if heatings running and hot water goes on, heating often won't resume, sounds like it's misfiring, then may work after 5 to 30 attempts... Sometimes water does the same... Just replaced thermocouple and gas...

Sorry to piggyback this thread but... The lower 1.0m of my kitchen walls (beneath the work surface) is prone to condensation. So I was planning on Celotexing the lower 1.0m only... (is this common practice?) could I just strip back to the brick work, batten up and install the celotex under...

Just noticed I have two different log-in names...

Bon idee! Will get the gunk gun out again!

Cheers DAZ... Will give it a whirl.

Is there a rough guide on 'required radiator size' v 'room volume'? JP

Beware boarding up the joists from underneath, they generally need air to circulate around them to stop damp / rot. I've wedged a load of rolls of loft insulation rolls between the floor joists, and they're held in place with a combination of chicken wire, thin batons and string. And it's made...

Aha - a flat bottomed arch... That'll be why there's no lintel :oops: Still got a chuffing great gap betwixt the courses - was gonna try to put a load of expanding foam up there, but you need to hold the can upside down (i.e. you can't squirt it up!) so reckon I can just shove a...

Just noticed today that when I close my 2nd storey bathroom (UPVC) window, the top remains slightly ajar (acts as a kind of trickel filter I guess!). I'm assuming that the hinge / runner mechanism has become a little twisted (unless anyone has an alternative suggestion?). Couple of queries...

Our 2 storey extension (kitchen and bathroom) is a lot colder than the rest of the house. I've insulated the loft - with about 300mm of standard insulation, but it's still pretty cold. Both the ceilings of kitchen and loft are formed from slatted wooden panelling - both floors are tiled...

Afternoon all, Bit of a newb at all this :oops: Have been wondering why my front room's so cold for a while, I have a cellar and recently insulated between the floor joists, but not much has changed. Anyway I was looking at my cellar window yesterday and noticed that the lintel only spans...

X-Section of unlintelled outer brick course and cellar

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