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That's a lot! I think this idea is a non-starter for me.... It's cheaper just to buy a mains version and a battery powered version if I've too much charge anxiety! Although, hang on a minute, why are you multiplying by 60? Surely the battery capacity is just 2 x 18 = 36Wh. If that's all gone in...

A battery seems to hold just 27Wh. I wonder if one could assume it will last 30mins continuous so I’d need to find about 50W transformer? So just 3A? That’s not too bad. But it’s odd that the mains powered tools (eg jigsaw) tend to be about 700W!

Preferably looking for a “power 4 all” connector, but thanks

I already have 2 batteries. Sometimes if one is doing intensive work (or has been careless with charging regimes!) one can get stuck. I had naively assumed that a mains adaptor would only be about £20 or so, so a useful insurance policy, but I was wrong!

I wonder how much current they draw at 18v?

Thanks! I see that's quite an expensive item. I like the idea of making one's own adapter from old batteries.

Do any of the cordless tool systems have a way of using them when all your batteries are flat? eg. a "fake" battery that contains an 18v transformer and a long mains cable?

Cheers. Would one use it in a hammer mode, or would that risk cracking the tile?

A bit cheaper? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Speciality+Drills+%26+Chucks/sd1400/Keyed+Chuck+with+SDS+Adaptor+%26+Key/p56617

Ah! I see what you mean - you want a non-masonry bit for a drill fitting that is generally designed for use with masonry.... Mmm. Don't think I've ever seen such a thing. The only thought that arises (but I don't understand your needs!) is that you can get adaptor chucks.

I'm trying to drill a 6mm hole in some remarkably hard limestone. It seems that normal carbide tipped masonry bits will drill perhaps 5mm or so before getting noticeably blunt and slow. Given that these only cost about £2 each, I can live with that, but just wondering what the "Rolls Royce" of...

Define "reasonably priced"! I presume the likes of Toolstation are too expensive?

Thanks for that - particiularly for teaching me the term "nightlatch". I think rim nightlatches (classic "Yale" locks, yes?) are ugly (as Prince Charles might say, they are "monstrous carbuncles"), which is why I didn't install one of those. The thumbturn cylinder will be fine. I should...

Exterior door, already has two deadlocks, but one of the problems with deadlocks is that they're not very convenient for casual use - i.e. when one wants to just close the door in a way that you'd need a key from the outside but not from the inside. The classic solution to this on normal...

Will do (and thanks for the sympathy!). To be fair, the suppliers aren't exactly blaming the fitters (with the possible comment that the fitters might have discarded more of the planks) - they're just saying that it's supposed to be like that! I think they genuinely believe it to be a good...

Following on from this, the guys laying the floor worked their way through 5 18kg tubs of the Taylor's adhesive! So over £350 on glue alone... However, I'm not at all happy with the result and thought I should post a warning here to those who think there is such a thing as a good Internet...

Looking at the spec for this adhesive, they recommend using a pretty heavy roller on it afterwards. Is this generally done and good practice? I'd have thought most floor layers would find that a bit of a faff!

Apparently my builder is intending to put down a coat of PVA - would a lacquer be better?

It's Timberline, not Timberland, sorry! The chipboard's already down. I've heard mention of the notion of sealing it before the adhesive to improve coverage. I do have some Ronseal Diamond Hard varnish left over from doing the hall, which might be the ticket for that?

Laying 20mm engineered oak flooring onto a chipboard base. Wondering what ready-mixed adhesive to buy. One that has come up on the radar is Taylor Timberland MS+. Quite expensive (although prices charged vary wildly!) - is it very good? Any other suggestions?