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What is there at the moment? As in what are you putting the ply/chipboard on top of?

DON'T glue the floor. The floor will expand and contract and needs to be allowed to do this. gluing it attempts to keep the floor static. The floor should always be floated so it is allowed to move and expand as it may.

Yes the trade paint is of a higher quality and from experience lasts longer than the retail paint. In addition, the trade paints are concentrated and are to be watered down as desired (hence why they are more expensive). The retail paints are already at general emulsion consistency for the...

Dulux Weathershield Masonry Paint. It's not the cheapest paint but will last

Sorry i missed the fact it was new. In that case, I think flushing it with a garden hose would be fine. Im sure there wouldn't be much inside it but double check with the suppliers that that would be ok. Yes fit the radiator as you would, fully open the valves on either side and...

As long as you don't get the tiles mucky whey laying, you can seal them after you've laid them. Then a second seal after you have grouted.

No on both points. If it is an old radiator, it will need to be power flushed by someone with a machine. They would use chemicals to help remove sediment from within the radiator. The radiator will need to be tested under pressure comparable to what would be in your system. How that would...

I was talking about a roller like this. I have painted a rough pebble dashed external wall with a roller having no problems so on a stone wall like yours (which is relatively smooth in terms of stone walls) it should be fine...

Go for the Dulux for sure. It won't be the cheapest but it has no competition in terms of longevity

Personally, I feel you should keep the skirting and doors etc white. You don't want to draw too much attention to them especially when you have a beautiful timber floor.

Definately a roller but make sure you get an exterior roller, They are rougher and have more 'fluff'

If you don't mind a darker colour, you could go for slate. Its a fraction of the price of marble and you can normally find it at around 3cm thick. Just make sure that when you select a piece that it's fairly smooth on the facing side.

To be honest, even shallow rooting vegetables require 12-18" of soil so I guess in your case it would be better to take the base out. This article has a table of vegetable root depth. http://eartheasy.com/raised-beds-soil-depth-requirements.html If you choose to take the concrete out...

i agree with woody, your best bet is to get a survey done

was the house built during the winter?

Chicken wire is normally used on very old brickwork or when you expect a lot of movement in the wall. The problem is that a sand cement based render is always going to crack. The chicken wire may 'reinforce' and hold the render together but eventually as the building moves, expands and...

no problem. thats not a bad idea. the last time I did this I used a small squeegee instead of a float and in addition I cleaned off as much unwanted grout as I could whilst it was wet. good luck

As your stone tiles are very porus, it may be wise to keep them as clean as you can during grouting. Make sure you apply the first coat of sealant very liberally just to make your job of cleaning them that much easier.

You need to seal the tiles once you have laid them before doing the grout. After you have grouted, clean the tiles and seal them a second time.

I would very highly recommend using an aluminium wood primer. As im sure you know sash windows are a sizeable investment and the use of an aluminium primer will significantly increase the life of your windows. As it contains aluminium pigment, the primer has far better resistance to moisture...