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just to hopefully close the story on this, i got another engineer in shook who his head in disbelief at all the parts that had been fitted, pointed to the (closed) gate valve and said that it should be open otherwise there is nowhere for the water to escape to which is why it's overheating...

out of curiousity i bled all the radiators and rail today to see if there was any air in the system (none as far as i could tell as the water dribbled out almost immediately) and checked the lockshield screws on all the rads, all open about 1.5 turns apart, broke a key doing it, the bleed screws...

thanks, is the bypass gate valve the bit with the red wheel? what would i be looking to see in the water - rusty colour/floating bits etc? The water comes out clean from the taps, but i'm guessing that's completely seperate?

p.s. the pump does run on for a number of minutes after the call for heat or water has ended, it's usually after the call has ended that the overheat light clicks on, i haven't seen it do overheat while it's actually running... :?

Photos as promised, if there are any close-ups or other photos required please ask, I've included the radiators and towel rail anyway in case they're relevant with regard to size. //www.diynot.com/network/judas123/albums/12710 Thanks for everyones input so far :)

Thanks, I think it's an S-plan system, as it has two motorised valves, one for hot water, and another for central heating. They are on seperate pipes which then join together into one, which then goes into the pump and then into the boiler. Probably some pictures would help, I'll take some...

Hi, I recently bought a two-bedroom house which has a Baxi Solo 2 50PF boiler in the garage, Drayton Lifestyle LP522 controller in downstairs wc, a large hot water tank in the loft, 4 radiators (one without temperature control in the downstairs hall - presuming this is the main one? the rest...