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Not with 15mm. ½" imperial is only very slightly bigger and will fit inside a 15mm olive. ¾" imperial is however significantly smaller (0.5mm) than 22mm, so the gap is too big to be reliably taken up by compressing the 22mm olive. Fitting a ¾" olive instead is the simplest solution.

Yes it is standard practice in the UK. Male threads are R (tapered) and Female threads are Rp (parallel), both being threads suitable for sealing on the threads. For practical purposes Rp is the same as a female G thread (where the thread is intended for compression purposes only) since the...

I don't think there's such a thing as a Corgi backed guarantee. I'd check that very carefully if I were you. As for claims of 40% savings with weather compensation, that is complete cobblers. Just consider a modern condensing boiler with normal controls - room stat, TRVs, etc. Let's say the...

But now you know they're bull$hitting you, so you can call them back and tell them to sort it out. Why pay for a maintenance contract and then let them get away with cheating you? And it's hydrogen, not nitrogen! :roll:

But the filling loop is disconnected and it's air that's entering, not water. I suspect that air is being drawn in somewhere upstream of the pump (AAV?) as a result of some severe restriction to circulation. I suppose if the cap were screwed down on the AAV that possible source of the air...

The diagram neglects to show the T&PRV in the top of the cylinder. The PRV shown on the cold supply is also required in the UK but is not in any way a substitute for the T&PRV. The PRV is to release excess pressure but the T&PRV is primarily to release excess temperature, though it will also...

Just to prove that the air in the towel rail is not gas from rusting (hydrogen), hold a lighted match or similar naked flame in the gas as you release it from the air vent. If it's hydrogen it will burn. If it's only air (which it is) it won't. Then call BG back, tell them to stop bull$hitting...

Sanj, you're confusing the location of the PRV with that of the T&PRV, which is in the top of the cylinder (at least in the UK). You should be very careful what you post about unvented cylinders. There may be some readers who will think that they can ignore the requirement for the T&PRV with...

How could that be if the system is sealed and with inhibitor added? And how should this gas (hydrogen) only collect in the towel rail and not in the radiators where it would have formed? Doesn't make sense - they're bull$hitting you! Sounds like you have a BG contract - have they ever carried...

Try what? If the pressure is never less than 1 bar air cannot enter the system, even at the AAV. The air collecting in the towel rail may be given off as a result of heating up fresh water (which would have air dissolved in it). Has the problem persisted long after the last refill of the...

In some cases you can connect a discharge pipe to an internal soil stack via a HepVo waterless trap. Probably best to check with your local Building Control whether this might be acceptable.

You could use a pressure reducing valve (PRV) on the cold supply. It might improve things a bit but no guarantee. Also you could consider pumping the hot side, but that would require plumbing alterations. If you are considering a seperate shower valve then a Venturi shower might work for you.

Brilliant post by Slugbaby! I've had persistent problems with an intermittent fault leading to lock-out on a White Star. Ravers "engineer" came out about 10 times under guarantee and just messed up the gas pressure settings with his out-of-calibration pressure tester. Things looked hopeful for a...

Another way to test the integrity of the diaphragm is to see how long it holds the pressure applied to it. An air pressure test is a more demanding test than a water pressure one since air is much less viscous than water and will leak more easily. I'm assuming that an EV with an air side...

I agree that that might be the case, but then when the EV was pressurised the water would be expelled and would increase the system pressure, possibly above the 0.7 bar aimed for. That is why I said that the system pressure would need to be checked again once the EV is repressurised. Of...

That's what they actually say, Simon. I wouldn't want to be putting my neck on the block by going against their instructions.

Not so. As long as the system pressure is below the precharge pressure that you want to achieve then it will be OK. For example, if you want to pressurise the EV to 0.7 bar, then release the system pressure to achieve say 0.5 bar or less. Then pump up the EV to 0.7 bar, checking that the system...

Not so, Simon. Regulations (Gas Safety, Building, Water, etc.) are the law and cannot be overruled by anything. Perhaps you are thinking of Standards (BS, COPs, etc.) which are advisory and can be overruled by MIs. I suspect that the 150mm figure is advisory and from a British Standard but...

It's because the hole for a natural draught balance flue is very much bigger than for a 100mm flue/air duct. It would require more clearance to avoid weakening the structure of the opening, so 300mm sounds about right.