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Thanks. I had always thought the cold roof was still compromised in some way. Perhaps not. (y)

Thanks. That is exactly where my head is at. The ridge will be higher (planning). I guess I would likely also have deeper soffits and some sort of facia at the side to mitigate the extra roof depth. The roof needs recovering anyway and I'll be adding a room in the roof. Trying to gauge if...

Thanks for that. Yes, the diagram is of a cold roof but the description refers to a warm roof build up as being the best suited to the UK climate. Lazy link from me I'm afraid. Better illustration below with this manufacturer stating it is often chosen for re-roofing as it performs better...

Thanks Woody I am aware of the planning requirement but that aside, I'm interested on what is the better solution from a cost and performance perspective. I assume a warm roof is unvented and cold the vented? Why would a warm/unvented pitched roof need additional insulation between &...

I am looking to create a room in the loft (Velux conversion) but want/need replace the roof covering before I do so - the bituminous felt is getting old/brittle, has slipped in places and has been shredded by birds around the valleys and eaves. A warm roof looks like a more elegant solution...

Wow Jackrae, that sounds proper Heath Robinson. Glad that has worked for you. The enclosure is definitely on top of the tray. My plan, if it can be reused, it to 1) Completely disassemble it it reverse to the installation 2) Get the old tray and first row of tiles out. 3) Build a new base...

It's a 1200 x 900 quadrant corner enclosure.

My shower tray has cracked (after 5 years) and needs to be replaced. The retailer has sent a replacement tray. Is it reasonable to re-use the enclosure? In theory I know I could remove it carefully and reinstall it but I suspect I'll either bend some of the trim and/or leave some silicon on...

Hi, Advise please on the safe removal of a shower tray. I've spotted a hairline crack in our stone resin tray, I can try a patch kit but a new tray is the only long term solution. I'm happy enough with installing a new tray. The problem is getting the old one out. The existing tray is on...

Not cheap. Around £50 +VAT a window for 4 good size windows. Probably 1.5m x 1m with central bar.

I've spoken to a painter recently who has started using Kolorbond. I have a sample of UPVC trim which has been sprayed. I took a key to it and couldn't scratch it off. The paint bonds into the plastic. He's offering a 10 year guarantee on the paint system.

That's the bit I can't see. If the joists sit on hangers inside the walls, where will the cold air come from I had insulated below? The ceiling void isn't open to the elements. I can't visualise it but you're not the first person to say this, I'm sure its right - but it's bugging me.

Thanks Woody that is exactly why I asked. Fire risk is/was my main concern. If its a floor up job then so be it. It won't be the first time. Why though would the floor void be cold/have a gale blowing through. Where would that come from. Sorry if this is obvious, I can't visualise it. Thanks.

Hi All, I know the topic of insulating a garage has been covered many times but I can't find the answer I am looking for so here goes. I have a garage with a room above. The garage ceiling is boarded in fire retardant sheet to provide protection to the room above. Unfortunately the void...

Why apply for LDC......? Peace of mind. Because its easier to tell the council "I am doing "X" under PD and have them say "OK" than it is to have them grant permission. Because you only have to look back through this forum to find countless examples of the council saying permission is...

Thanks. I'm aware of Article 4 and there are restrictions and I'm not planning on building out from the side elevation. Straight back only. It would be nice to be on the right track with materials as it means I can use DP rather than a full application although I will apply for a lawful...

I'm considering building a small rear extension which will hopefully full within PD. The house in a 1980's semi on article 2(3) land (Conservation area and AONB). It will comply in terms of height, rear projection and width but I'm stuck on parts A.2 and A.3 of the GPDO. Part A.2 states...

If you go on the celotex website there is a calculator where you can input your hypothetical construction and get the u value. You could run a few scenarios in there to get the numbers your after.

Thank you both for the time you have taken to answer here, and to explain in so much detail. Much appreciated.

OK, Common and L together, with L1 tucked away. The 2nd switch now controls the spots in question which come on as they should........ A new dimmer needed me thinks....... For future reference/understanding, would I get the same effect with L1 and common together? Just with the 2nd switch...