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Hi, Our boiler keeps doing this (click on the image at the bottom to play the video)… https://share.icloud.com/photos/03d3i5kKsBnqm7RZkmZ5n3h3w When I move the control section it connects and fires up. Obviously a dodgy connection - is it an easy DIY fix? Find the dodgy wire and replace it...

Thanks guys!

Hi, I do a lot of my own plumbing. I taught myself to solder but I don’t do enough (it’s not my day job) to get a good technique going so I’ve mostly done compression fittings. I had a real plumber move some pipes around ten years ago (a job that I didn’t want to attempt at the time but would...

…just reading on here about other similar problems relating to RCD’s and other things in the circuit. We had the dishwasher running while testing the oven so turned that off and tested the oven again. I was able to heat the oven up and have it remain on at low temperatures (60, 120, 150) but...

Hi, I’ve got a Hotpoint oven that’s 9 years old. Recently using the grill caused the electricity to trip. It did this a couple of times and then the grill stopped working altogether. The oven has two elements and the grill element works when the oven is on - so no working oven. I ordered a new...

Yep - all combinations of on and off work properly, nothing's got hot and the RCD hasn't tripped. I ran a wire from the earth on the faceplate to the earth on the box. Thanks!

All sorted - working perfectly with the suggested wiring, glad I checked! It probably hasn’t been touched since the 80’s.

Yes, switch upstairs controls the upstairs landing light. The switch upstairs has one wire coming down into it and two coming up.

I'll try it again as suggested - Red L1 at the bottom and Black L2 at the bottom. Red to common at the top and black to L2 at the top as it was previously.

when I just tried it, the stray red worked in the common and the black in L1. L2 on the bottom has never been used - it’s shiny and the screw is where you’d expect it to be from new. I’m not saying it’s right but it worked.

Yes, I’ve got the old switch working the Reds are both common and the Blacks are L1 (landing) and L2 (hallway). On the new switch do I still need the jumper between the two commons?

I’m going to try putting the old switch back on - judging from the length and position of the two exposed wires , I think they came out of L1 and L2 at the bottom of the switch (to the right of the photo - the switch is rotated).

Just replacing the hallway light switch. When I removed the old one the two wires that aren’t connected in the photo fell out of their terminals so I don’t know where they go. They control the upstairs light. The downstairs light works fine without the other wires attached. also, I’m fitting...

Landing light! Over the stairs - I sat it in the bath while figuring out what to do!

I’ve been over thinking this I think :LOL: I just need a long wood screw to replace the hook - problem solved!

That’s a good idea - the bracket itself has two other holes so I could use those and keep the original bolts that hold the light. just a question now of finding wood screws that are long enough to go deep enough into the joist.

Hi, I’m trying to fit this rather heavy light to a plasterboard ceiling with a plastic decorative ceiling rose. I had it up temporarily with a screw in hook and (don’t judge me) cable ties but now that we’ve decorated, I need a permanent solution. directly above the centre is a 100mm joist...

Thanks guys. it’s an intermediate switch, it has the word ‘intermediate’ across the middle. wired up as suggested - working perfectly

Hi, I’m replacing the light switch at the top of the stairs - it’s a regular set up, the landing light can be switched from upstairs or down stairs. I thought it would be simple but think I might have bought the wrong switch. The switch has one wire coming down into it (red) and two wires...

...yes, I’ll strip it down and have a poke around, maybe replace the wiring....after all it’s 30+ years old.