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If I’m keeping up, you seem to be talking about an additional wired in item that would stop the 3 way valve actuator using power and creating heat while it’s waiting hours for the next call for DHW … if so what would the wiring diagram look like. Thanks Ray

I needed to renew the diaphragm yesterday after the "continuing to run" problem reoccurred. As "Just pumps" and "dilalio" pointed out, it would have been a better idea to renew the rubber last March .... it works perfectly well now Thanks again for your help.

One other thing the lady said was the Engineer mentioned - after everything else had failed - it could be a "cable problem" Not sure what cable would be only for the heating side?

Thank you Hugh but it is one of the J&S Approved Engineers who came out first and provided the quote for a complete new system. It was the same people who installed to existing one. I don't think not knowing what the problem is, is a good reason for renewing it

Thank you CF, I've only got my version second hand ... I understand from the owner there is just a clicking sound when the heating is chosen ... presumably the ignitor failing to light the boiler. She also indicated the first person probably tried a replacement PCB along with the gas valve and...

I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this mystery. A friend as a Johnson & Starley Economaire 65 which has stopped working on the heating side but still produces DHW. Two Engineers have looked at it, the first fitted a new gas valve which didn’t make any difference then swopped a working...

I was hoping for a simpler solution, there are four rooms and the landing, a lot of area to cover. It being done in 1964 there is an amount of movement when walking about (creaking). I wonder if plaster would still be likely to crack.

The upstairs walls of our dormer bungalow were constructed of chipboard in the 60s. In the 90s when we moved here I papered all the walls thinking it would best hide the joints. The normal paper on the landing has stayed OK. The textured paper has cracked at most of the joints What's the best...

In the event we went with TalkTalk 900mbps The cable is oval approximately 6mm x 3mm Thanks again for your help

That would account for it then … the person who told me dealt with internet landlines rather than fibre installations

Thanks, I’d been told it was oval and 2 core. There is some of that type comes up in Google when searching for full fibre cable.

Thanks, I’m wanting to prepare the access in advance of the installer arriving. Is the cable round or oval ?

Can you tell me the physical size of the cable that goes from the Open Reach pavement ducting to the Customer Splice point? And do they use the same cable from the Customer Splice point to the new Fibre Modem, in our case about 15 metres away on the outside brickwork then through the lounge...

Problem solved, Saniflo continues to work as it should.

You wrote ... I have 20yrs experiance and you have ZERO I read the previous Saniflo questions before posting mine, so I already knew you had a vast knowledge of Saniflo systems, and even more so since you have pointed out it stretches over a 20 year period. You are taking offence at me saying...

I’m sorry; I’m trying to be as courteous as possible. Is it me saying it will fail to operate the switch before it leaks that’s upset you? Please let me know if I’ve missed something, rather than leaving me to figure it out Thanks Ray

Thanks for the Red Hermitite suggestion JP, it was the perfect sealer. The diaphragm is much more likely to stop operating the switch before it lets water into the electrics. Thank you again for your help, Ray

Thanks JP, there was a fine layer of sealer on the diaphragm from new, is there a need to replace it with anything?

Thank you Eric

I concluded the diaphragm has been "drying out" over the last 25 years becoming smaller and less flexible, not allowing the plunger to fall away from the micro switch. After heating the diaphragm with an hair dryer and massaging it with WD40 it appears to work perfectly normal. Just need to...