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If it ain't broken - don't fix it Andy suggested it may have been turned 180degrees but the paver patterns don't match either way round Don't remove the pavers (you'll never get them back in as neat as they are now). Simply lift one end of the cover and drag it far enough to peer inside but...

Only an issue if 'she' says so

Tap action will change viz on/off will now be off/on

To some extent responses will depend on the type of lamp holder ie E27 vs B22 and whether the socket is plastic or brass With B22, both pins are fully recessed so the chances of making contact with either is slim, unless the bulb globe shatters With E27, if wired incorrectly, the outer screwed...

If it's not a dumb question - why are you wanting to change the tap - if it ain't broken, why fix it.

Tapsplitter, like this. You can make your own in the form of a paddle shaped out of a length of 18mm plywood say 75 x 200 Cut out a slot that will allow the paddle to fit over both tap body and spout. You then use the wooden paddle as a reaction lever to counter the torque of the spanner...

Why does the platform, that the sink sits on, project so far in front of the cabinet line. I think things would (or might) look a little better if the platform was recessed slightly behind the line of the cabinets. I'd also suggest you get your cabinet maker to manufactire some filler pieces...

Your breaker probably only opens the live lead. If you accidentaly touched the neutral lead to the earth lead that would trip any system RCD

Memo to self - read the date !!

Your pump may be rated to produce 3 bar deltaP but only if it is fed with sufficient water. Your feed line to the pump might be the problem.

Those air bricks on the house wall are there to prevent the house floor joists from rotting by allowing free movement of fresh air - ie they should be able to 'breath' fresh air

You need a friend with a lathe - much neater and better than trying to drill brass

You'd lose all it's stregth if you bore enough out to accept the previous c0ck up. I suggest you have 2 options ; a) cut into the wall and correct the piping problem so's the elbow is sunk below the surface or b) fit 10mm sheet of whatever over the complete wall so's the elbow ends up 'buried'...

You need to include the 1st floor plan to illustrate if any of it's walls are supported by the section you wish to remove. That crack running in front of your hand is interesting as there has obviously been some load on the block

Looks like it's going to be 2 x 1.5 then :unsure:

It might be if you're building a house. I'd have thought 200 wide by 150 deep good enough for a single porch dwarf wall and leave the existing slab as-is

There apper to be several cables (telephone/internet/tv) buried under that gravel so you really should provide a means of being able to draw these out/replace before you build over them.

First thing you need to do is completely remove all paint from a section (a couple of inches or so) so's you can see exactly what the required profile is. The professional solution is to take a pattern of the clean skirting and then spindle mould plain boards to the desired profile. However if...

Unless they are claiming you need an IP rated CU, it may be a case of the CUs they propose to use have IP ratings even though such is not actually required for the application. As others have said, if it's not being used in a situation where such is required, there is no need for an IP rated...

If the cable condition causes you concern then get the lamp PAT tested, which, if carried out correctly, will include a cable condition assessment.