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Yes I get it !! Electrical interference and the reflection / absorption of radio waves are different things and can be tested for and cured in different ways. I have the information that I need thanks. David

Thanks for everyone's help, I am not trying to spark off arguments between professionals, all of the responses have been helpful to me. I have also found a useful guide:-...

Thanks to all for their comments. It is clear from the responses that there is a risk of interference so I will be following one of the suggestions of putting it in the correct position before final installation with a temporary keyboard link and trying out the signal strength at various...

Is this it ? http://www.wireless-alarms.net/store/customer/manuals/RE3000%20System%20Manual%20Complete_WA.pdf

Thanks everyone for the inputs, I will be putting all of the information to good use in a weeks time. Happy Xmas all

Joe, please tell me if I am wrong as I am just an amateur. Isn't a panic alarm just a couple of normally closed circuits ? If so, can't one just join the 4 cores together using a terminal block ? If that doesn't work join red to black and blue to yellow - I know that is guessing however...

Thanks, I will do a few tests

As I said before I am not getting on a ladder until the summer !! The ladder would be up against the house wall and the bell is on a gable wall at 90 degrees - doesn't look fun.

Thanks, I guess that there is no substitute for try it and see !! I will test on the strobe first so I don't upset the neighbours. Any thoughts on the other question ? <<I will be without a working panel for a couple of days, is it better just to let the sounder ring until the battery dies...

Thanks, something simpler will be better. I am fine with switched negative as a trigger and both options do that, my issue is what should inactive normally be, I seem to have an option of inactive either being an open circuit or positive and I am not sure if that makes any difference in alarm...

Hopefully my final topic on my impending upgrade from a Scantronic 9800 to an ION-40 is about my external sounder. The sounder was fitted 20 years ago & I have no idea of the make as I have a white bellbox with the alarm company logo on it. The internal battery is pretty bad, when I remove...

Thanks EightyTwo - that is great and gives me confidence to dig in the right place. I think that the builder put a thick layer of plaster on after the alarm company had done the first fix - they then kept on getting the alarm company to patch up the mess when the swinging lid caught on the...

Thank you all for your help. I intend to test out the unit before installation so will follow the advice on the signal test, I only have PIRs to test with as I am keeping the existing wiring on the 3 exit doors. The existing box had an unidentified gizzmo with a capacitor that connects to...

Thanks, I will be checking for the induced voltage as I know the alarm wires and mains (as professionaly installed) are too close. A number of sites seem to recommend the following for testing for and then removing if present induced voltage...

Thanks for that. The new panel will in the same place that the previous one was so hopefully will not be too much of an issue with induced voltage (and I believe that it is curable). I copied the test from the spike supressed spec:- 1. Switch multimeter to 20VAC range 2. Connect test...

Thanks Josh that helps me calm my worries !! Any other views ? I realise that I will need to test for induced voltage, my current box has something strange (1J160) that may be for that, however I guess that there could be wireless interference as well in the new one with the electric wires...

Hi, I will be installing a Scantronic ION-40 to replace my 9800. The current box sits on a wall & the alarm wires are buried in the plaster and come up in the box. Also behind the box (in the plaster) is a mains cable that feeds some sockets and the fused spur for the box. The cable comes...

Thank you both for your advice. One question to EightyTwo:- Looking at my photo, is everything visible 'The Guts' - ie do I lever below the visible plastic ? I appreciate the comments, I basically want to remove it neatly and be able to put it back if necessary as a Plan B. However Plan A...