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Thanks both. It must be RG6 because I measured it at ~6mm - looks exactly like in the video posted too. Looks easy enough, fingers crossed this saves a trip to the roof :)

I've discovered the TV signal is awful in a BTL property and found a suspect joint in the cable hiding in a corner - it's held together with duct tape :) I want to try joining this properly before venturing onto the roof or replacing a cable, what do I need? Is TV coaxial cable the same as Sky -...

This seems an easier option then. Like you say I can add some insulation at the same time. Cheers

Hadn't considered that, because it's a smaller space you mean? I think the floor dimensions might actually be almost exactly 4.8x2.4m which could make that quite quick though would I want a smaller spacing as OSB is a bit less rigid?

Would it be worth just throwing a plastic DPC sheet on the slab underneath then? I didn't really want to install floorboards as I haven't before but you're probably right. And since I'm using this project as a way to learn new skills "where it doesn't matter much if I mess up" it would be a...

See that was my original thought but seemed like more faff and I have already studded out and panelled the walls. I did consider using 2x2 resting on the concrete as 'joists'. I'm not sure what would work out quicker/easier, doing that or leveling the concrete. I can see grinding is certainly...

I've been converting a Victorian greenhouse which includes a pretty rough concrete floor. I've been procrastinating for ages what flooring to use but come to the conclusion it is going to need smoothing out regardless first. One end is at ground level or slightly below and of course there is no...

We've had a nice stone flag path jointed by Jointex Easy Joint in the past - it looks good and is the thing the guy doing it has always used. I was going to get some to re-do a patio and path (22m2) But I noticed ScrewFix stock Sika Fastfix which appears to be the same idea and 2/3 the price...

Not in your scenario. In the confines of a duct, under load, the friction might be sufficient that you can't 'pop' it. In fact I reckon if you roll a few turns of rope on a 1m section of SWA in one direction then a few in the other, and pull the end , it may well grip because you are pulling...

The duct was laid 3 years ago because I thought I might want it one day.. I’m just pleased I have it at all

you’re definitely right there. wrapping a cable onto a spool introduces a huge amount of twist compared to rolling it. I’ve learned that in the past

It'd be interesting (well sort of) to see this in a clear conduit. Because we all know a SWA does not twist or rotate easily at all, it’s pretty stubborn. It’s a bit of a mystery how a rope can get several wraps around it but it seems that happens.

I have certainly heard the same thing can happen. It's one of the reasons I write this thread - I previously naively assumed you can just pass another string/wire when pulling the cable, but the person who laid some other ducting/SWA for us a few years back told me they had had bad experiences...

I am not sure I even understand the question properly ;) we have an old dedicated overhead cable running 100m up our drive from the road (just to our house) and a brand new meter/supply was fit ~3 years ago off the pole (they replaced the cable to the meter and everything). We have the main...

For a run of 30m would I need a separate bonded Earth at the outbuilding out of interest? Not a job for me but I like to know, and I can’t find the rules for this

I’m more thinking would there be any scenario where having more is useful, than damage. I’m not going to switch to 3 phase :) But is there any other common case I might need an extra wire? I might add Ethernet but that’s totally separate. All I could think of was a control wire but for what!?

I’m planning a 30m SWA cable run to a detached outbuilding. I’ve calculated 4mm2 cores are sufficient (2.5% voltage drop at 4kW so I can run a small heater). A small consumer unit will be installed probably 2 circuits (lighting and one or two sockets). I already have a conduit buried and don’t...

It’s level enough that you don’t notice by eye or when walking on it.. as I say a slight gradient but flat apart from the section that stays wet, you only notice that when it’s wet. I think you’d struggle to get it more flat if you ripped it up and put down a base before paving, basically. I...

Anyway it seems like the consensus is patching isn’t a good option? Would it gain me anything at all? Getting this ripped up and replaced, that’s a pretty big job, right? At least it needs heavier equipment - best to just get some pros in if I want it to look good?

Drainage IS an issue. It’s maybe not obvious but that wall has about a 10 foot drop the other side to the drive. There is also a cellar on one corner of the house. So it seems to me the concrete is doing an additional job of keeping all that retained earth relatively dry. So I think regardless...