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Thank you :)

Excellent info, thanks guys. I hadn't considered secondary glazing, so I might look at that for a temporary option until the weather is warmer. I assume the transom doesn't provide much in the way of structural support. The window is 166cm in height. Again, thank you for such informative...

Much of our house has had the glazing replaced with modern pvc. Two original windows have been retrofitted with thin double. One on our landing has single glazing. I don't really need the window to open, so I was wondering if there's any reason I couldn't replace the pane with a modern double...

I occasionally see second hand units on eBay for very little money. That's probably what I'll look out for. Fair point about energy donation though.

You could well be right, but if I already have the panels, the tank, and an immersion heater, it's not much outlay.

Thanks buddy, looks like the way forward!

No there won't be any FIT as it's a DIY install. The immersion seems like a sensible way to go. I've redone my calcs and can get an extra three panels on there (but flat), which will increase the yield a bit.

Ah you are so right. I assumed that the diverter would in reality just switch the heater on or off. Reading some more, I can see that (at least some) will go in line and feed the excess. I won't even need to change the existing 3kw unit!

Thanks guys, I've seen a few small heaters that are either not large enough in thread size, or not long enough to be worth using (we have gas, so there's only one immersion and it's at the top). I'll wait until it's up and running and I see how much excess I generate. Maybe it will be enough...

I'm installing a 2kw solar array on my garage roof; I won't be getting FIT or have a battery, so I'm looking at making the most it. I was planning on putting a diverter in place so that the immersion heater in our hot water tank kicks in when there is a suitable surplus. You can get 1kw...

Yes that's right; I always do one on bare plaster/filler. I'd not use your fancy paint though - just some super cheap emulsion watered down.

No, never put pva on a surface you're planning to paint. Was the ceiling mist coated first? I'd give the problem area a light sand, then mist coat and repaint.

Our house still has a few of its original windows and all but the landing have clearly been retrofitted with thin double glazing. The landing window is a simple tall pane with a small top-hung opening at the top. Is there any sane reason not to replace it myself? Surely it's just a case of...

I'm using lime putty mortar for repointing and I'm going to be adding some pozzolan. I assume you add it to the knocked-up mortar just before use in smaller batches, rather than when knocking up?

Went in with no dramas, although moving the feed took all day. Cheers for your advice!

Hi, Tigercubrider. Unfortunately there's a stud wall to divide the loft roughly over the wall. It looks like a large tank was there at some point and it went a bit wrong. They've cut out the member and joined up with replacement wood. Oldbutnotdead. Good idea, thank you. I shall do that.

Champion, thank you. The house is 1905, so that's encouraging.

I'm going to join a 25 gallon tank to our existing 25 to accommodate our power shower. The roof members are approx 50 x 100 with ~400 centres across 4m. I don't have a supporting wall. The existing tank is sitting on ply, resting on 2x4 across the joists. I assume it would be alright to do...

Thanks madrab. I'll stick a jug under the inlet and see how much I get in a minute, then compare that to the garden tap. If it's a lot more then I'll look at a second inlet. The existing tank isn't over a wall, the additional tank won't be either. I was going to put some 2x4 along several...

Our cold water tank isn't large enough for the power shower; I was going to add an additional tank, join with two 22mm links and move the fill/overflow to the second tank. Would adding a second fill valve (off the 15mm feed) increase the flow to the existing tank? I can't imagine they are that...