Search results

Finally got it all wired up today to the lightswitch with permanent live. 1.5mm cable from switch to spur, then flex to panel.

only 2 of the holes will reach though as the outer 2 are 16 inch apart. inner 2 will miss the stud? Hex wood screws best through the cab and into stud, what length typically so don't go right through the wall.

What would the recommendation be for mounting the below 6U 500 deep cabinet to a stud wall?! Each side has 2 holes at the top but only the outer 2 are 16 inch centres which i believe should hit the studs in the wall. What fixings are best to use, and should I mount ply first and drill...

Earth to screw terminal, Live to terminal on the IN to switch, and neutral to the other side of chock block ?

Based on the below i'm going to say i can cut the wire in original photo and put a junction box and then take a fuse spur off junction box and reconnect cable to light, or should I take the input to the light switch out and put into the junction box then take 2 cables one back to switch and one...

Thanks, that the cable going into the loft light switch and then a cable comes out up to the light. So yes, what you say makes sense!

In order to fit a fuse spur into the loft for Alarm Panel, can i cut this wire, add a round junction box, re-connect the light supply and run a second cable to fuse spur for intruder panel in the loft? thanks.

Which menu option allows forced portal and will it still connect to backup portal in event of primary failure/issue?

I may have just been a little impatient, as all devices are now showing a primary and backup signal strength. however some devices still show the higher signal as Backup, does this matter?

I have fitted a mainly wired Galaxy Flex System but with an in-panel RF Portal and using peripherals DT8M Pir, D08M Contact and DF8M Smokes. Some devices are on the edge of signal 02/03 and occasionally report RF Loss. I have added an additional C079-2 RF Portal, but only the DT8M Pir and D08M...

All sorted and volume set to 10 and is perfect. Thank you.

All sorted and working thank you!

I've moved into a property and had trouble getting tv signal from sockets. I've been in the loft and there was a fuse socket and aerial booster attached to one of the trusses. The booster had no led light on so assumed dead and bought another. Checking power before isolating the circuit I'm not...

When I close the door I can't hear the system set beeps hence the speaker. I know the ones we have at work just replicate the beeping when the system is set and unset. They certainly are loud on intruder though!

Menu 51 82 is set to 1=speaker sp that's okand the output menu 53 is set to entry exit. So with the choc block connectors on the speaker am I connecting OP3 and 0v or OP3 and +12V?

Which menu setting is that in? In the menu i went to the *99 output as that's what the manual says to program on the output type as e/e

I did try that. the cqr has a connector block top right black and red cable and manual shows both as audio in. I put black to op3 on main panel and red to +12v output function set to entry exit. Set system and no sound. Went into test mode and still no sound on output. Volume setting set to max...

Hi i bought a cqr sounder which i mistakenly bought the sounder version only instead of speaker/sounder so that i could hear the entry exit tones outside the door when setting. . however that worked fine on intruder activation and sounded. i now have the speaker/sounder version however the...

** Update - all sorted ** - logged into the selfmon website and it had all the menu settings in there that needed to be changed/entered. received engineer test so all good.

I had a g2-12 panel at old house with LCE module which worked great with the VKP and push notifications on email/text. I've moved house and now got a flex+ with E080 ethernet card. Remote access works perfect with the GX App but struggling to get the ARC push settings to work. i;m sure i've...