Search results

Thanks for that, I can see from Screwfix / Toolstation images

What's the difference between "start edge" and "start loop" bathroom mixer taps?

Laminated my 5 metre hall leaving an expansion gap, most of which hidden under the skirting. In just a few days the floor 'migrated' to one end leaving a gap at the opposite end. I repositioned it, 'fixed' one end with silicone perimiter sealant and it's stayed put ever since...... Now then...

Turned out to be a stuck flow sensor (in the FLOW mode)

I've (1) Bled the rads & boiler top vent (2) Removed small stones from cold water supply conical filter and checked the Plate HE filter (3) Removed the water pump to view the diverter valve (which rocks back & forth) (4) Checked the operation of the diverter valve motor (out of housing) (5)...

I'm relocating my kitchen s/cock and, as I've done before, went to close the 76 yr old pavement supply cock. After a few turns it stopped turning but water was still flowing, next I unwound it to consider plan B, however the spindle had seized and the entire mains cock came off leaving an 18"...

(1930's brick built house) I'm putting DIY PVCu Casement Window in a kitchen / diner (where previously the back door was). The kitchen part of the diner is ventilated with an open grille extractor fan. Do I need to fit a trickle vent to the window frame? Thanks in anticipation

Thanks Tony, would you advise removing the odd 1/2 brick in the original wall to key in the reclaims, or is a wall starter acceptable.

French doors connect the dining / living room which I'm going to revert BACK to a solid wall (the rest of the wall is 3" x 9" commons) but I'm unsure whether to go for reclaims, medium density blocks or aerated (wickes) blocks. If the latter do they require special "tile type" adhesive or just...

Thanks Tony, that sounds like good advice.

Hello again guys. I got the lintel today and lifted it in place (dry run). Does it need sit on bed of mortar at the supported ends or just on bare brickwork? With the lintel resting on bare brick the gap above the lintel is 45mm (or about 35mm if I bed the ends on mortar). Do I...

thanks for that - was going to make it around 2m in keeping with the adjacent doorway.

Thanks for all your help guys. Now I have a secondary question.... is there a minimum requirement for headroom (floor to finished underside of lintel)?

The ones available from Wickes are 100mm wide x 65 thick x 1800 long. Would that be adequate or should I 'double deck' a pair of them? While removing some plaster elsewhere in the house I see that the 'over door' lintels are really substantial (at least 6" thick). The house is 1938 built...

I'm considering knocking a 1.5m wide opening in an internal 4.5" brick wall between the kitchen & dining room. The wall continues upwards dividing the bedroom & bathroom and into the roof-space level with the bedroom / bathroom ceiling joists..... with the exception of a few bricks 6 courses...

I've advised her to email the agent again (their previous response was very swift) and a friendly email to the owner.

Thanks all 4 of you ! If reported to the local authority what usually happens next? Can the landlord be forced to install a hearth or make it unusable (ie remove the stove)

Thanks Richard (oops dunno where I got Graham from). If anyone else has any input I have some photo's of the installation

Thanks for the reply. Yes it's a cast iron stove with a glass fronted door. Not sure when it was installed but I'd guess 2012 as it was brand new UNUSED when she moved in last November (the owner had used it only to burn documents & paper). The owner left a small irregular shaped piece of paving...

My daughter rents a modernised Victorian house. "Improvements" include a redesigned ground floor fireplace, brand new wood burning fire & fitted carpet running directly below the fireplace opening and which is now singed. I told her the fire installation doesn't comply with current UK...