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Managed at last to rig up a connection to our pipework TRV flow pipe using an old washing machine pipe (we have very old TRVs with steel pipe type connections) Bucket test gave a dribble about 2mm diameter. Connected up to the garden hose (with the system drained) and gave it a blast or three...

Testing the flow using suction had limited success but did prove that flow and return pipes have flow, but not how much. I haven't done the bucket test yet as setting up something to ensure the water goes into the bucket is proving difficult While things were disconnected I noticed the TRV...

Alan, many thanks for taking the trouble to write such a detailed reply. It sounds like a system that could work for me. All I can see of our pipework is 6" of 8mm feed and return emerging from under the floorboards which are fully carpeted. You can imagine that I'm reluctant to tear everything...

Thanks for that thought, I haven't actually tried that as I drained down to change the rad and TRV. The lockshield does operate freely over it's full range. I'll check it out when I do the bucket test.

Thanks a lot!

I know this is going to seem pretty stupid but I can't find the FAQs. I've found reference to bucket test being No 52. Perhaps I'm unusually thick this morning.

Thanks I tried it but no luck. Boiler went through it's start, run, shut down on thermostat cycle. Let it do that 5 times but rad still lukewarm although pipe and TRV v hot. Lockshield end cold. One other rad heated up, I guess TRV passing. Closed lockshield on that one to give max pressure at...

Thanks, I'll try that, presumably the boiler will overheat if there's a blockage?

Thanks for the prompt reply, unfortunately the microbore is under the carpet and floorboards fed from 22mm (I think) behind the plasterboard. Hopefully the TRV being v hot would indicate a problem in the return? Possibly a kink in the microbore.

One of the rads on our microbore open vented and pumped system has never really heated up properly. It is slow to heat and the bottom stays just warm. My first thought was sludge so took the rad off and flushed, then balanced the system as well as possible - no improvement. Next I changed the...

Thanks for continuing to help Tony, But what I am saying is that when CH and HW are running, I turn off CH only with the roomstat. The HW remains on. The pump does not stop because HW is on and calling for heat. This is when the noises happen for 2-3 mins, boiler and pump continue heating the...

Just checked boiler manual, the circuit diagram shows combined thermostat and pump over run. Would over run be relevent when I shut down CH but HW is still running? - That's when it makes a lot of noise.

Thanks Tony, Boiler has fan over run. I'll try to check pump over run. Any comment on the loud clattering banging please?

I've posted recently regarding noise problems, further investigation has narrowed things down a bit. It's a 20yr old microbore system with Gloworm Fuelsaver, 3 port valve, etc. When the system is running on CH + HW all is well. When I shut off CH the system clatters and bangs around the air...

This morning with HW and CH selected on via the programmer, when the roomstat cut out the boiler stopped even though tankstat was still calling for heat. When I switched the HW selector to off on programmer, the boiler cut in and the 3 port valve went to mid position. Any ideas please?

Just been trying the whole system, using roomstat and tankstat to call for heat. Each of them seemed to work correctly but I'm unsure about the position of the 3 port valve, the manual lever is in the mid position when HW only is on. Is that correct please? Grasping at straws now I guess!

Thanks for the tip Nige. A standard small horseshoe magnet did not stick, but a small piece of supermagnet stuck well to the aerjec and a little to pipes an inch or 2 from it. 6.30 today the system started perfectly, no noise at all. Been playing around with it this morning to reproduce the...

Thanks again, yes I am running both in the mornings. I guess the only way to be sure is to cut out the air sep and it's pipework. I guess a plumber is called for though, I have a gas torch etc but I don't have the confidence to use it in the confines of airing cupboard close to the ceiling. I...

Thanks for your reply, but why might the circulation be low now but not through summer? Surely it would be much less just going round the tank coil? BB

In spring we had a problem with banging/clattering around the air separator/cold water inlet pipework. Used some boiler noise reducer throughout the summer, the system was running daily for HW and no noises. On starting the CH & HW to check it out before winter there was no improvement, noises...