Search results

I have some aluminium windows that have a wooden frame and window sill on the outside. They are in need of painting. They were previously wood stained. I will be eventually replacing the windows but for now I have painted the inside of the window frames white and they look quite good. So...

Aha, is that rotten chipboard then that is coming away on the inside? Then they have overlaid it with plywood/new felt? Is puddling a problem if it doesn't seem to be leaking or is it a problem waiting to happen? Can be upto 20mm in some areas.

Recently moved into a new house and I think the garage might need a new roof.., It doesn't seem to leak but the previous owner has put some guttering in the roof to stop the water puddling. To be honest, I only use the garage for storing garden equipment etc so I'm not overly concerned...

roof

Yeah frame measured in a few places.... 1967-1969mm. But then a couple of mm clearance = 1965mm? Cheers

I would like to change all of the interior doors upstairs. The problem is the height of them is 1981mm and they'd have to be trimmed to about 1965mm which is slightly more than 5mm each edge specified on the door. The ones I am after are...

Too short in depth at the back. I'll probably replace the worktop completely in a year or so for something better anyway (when funds permit). These laminates are only £35 each. Thanks

I wasn't sure whether to put this in here or the DIY disaster forum! :lol: Anyway, first time fitting a kitchen worktop and I measured the width of one of the worktops and assumed all of the others would be the same! They weren't. The sink worktop was a larger width and had a service gap...

The boiler is in the airing cupboard. I have just checked and there is indeed a 3amp fused switch in there. The reason I want rid is that occasionally visitors (it has happened once so far) will turn off the boiler when trying to turn lights on/off in the kitchen. As you go through the door...

I have another switch for this circuit near the boiler. I will check it tonight. If it is not a 3amp switched fused connection unit I will change the switch so it is. If I do this, can I then get rid of the switch? Which is best practice... connection unit or blanking plate or something else.

But wouldn't having a blanking plate/connection unit there (suffice) indicating there was something going on behind the wall

I've recently had a new combi boiler installed in my house. It previously had no central heating. When the boiler was installed, they used the old immersion water heater electrical circuit to power the electrics on the combi boiler. Now the kitchen is being revamped I need to get rid of...

I think I'd probably go for 1.25 parts bleach and 3.5 parts water

I know the asbestos-vinyl ones do but I think these are thermoplastic ones. I read the guide and there is no way you could have removed these type without breaking them up a little. They are VERY brittle. Also, there was no visible dust when removing them, even if they broke.

Use both if you're worried but if it was me I'd just use bleach and not waste my money on the other product. Like I say, the smell will be mostly, if not all, ingrained in the carpet and underlay which you are removing anyway.

The majority of the smell will be coming from the carpet and underlay, so once that is up just use bleach on the concrete and allow to dry.

Also thinking maybe I should put one of these on the concrete floor: DMP Membrane Black 1000ga www.screwfix.com/p/dmp-membrane-black-1000ga-3-x-4m/50464 Vapour Barrier http://www.screwfix.com/p/vapour-barrier-2-5m-x-20m/12869 Then the high performance underlay, then the laminate?