Removing Switch - Old Immersion Heater

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I've recently had a new combi boiler installed in my house. It previously had no central heating.

When the boiler was installed, they used the old immersion water heater electrical circuit to power the electrics on the combi boiler.

Now the kitchen is being revamped I need to get rid of the water heater switch. I don't want to put a new switch in. I want it to be permanently on. I can turn the boiler off at the front of it if I need to.

So, any ideas? I dont really want to get a new cable plastered into the wall so is there some kind of connection unit I can use?

Saw this one for a cooker: http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-45a-cooker-connection-unit-white/16686
 
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One major problem is to have a live cable in the wall it needs to have something to show it will be there. So socket or switch will show there is a cable in the wall. Much depends on what cable was used and what protects that cable. In my case the immersion heater was on a B16 MCB so I replaced the remote switch in the kitchen for a socket.

But unless cable is removed there must be something there to indicate there is a cable in the wall.
 
But wouldn't having a blanking plate/connection unit there (suffice) indicating there was something going on behind the wall
 
Now the kitchen is being revamped I need to get rid of the water heater switch. I don't want to put a new switch in. I want it to be permanently on. I can turn the boiler off at the front of it if I need to.

No, you must have a double pole switch separate from the boiler, to enable the boiler and heating circuits to be completely isolated for maintenance. Unless you have an switched fused connection unit where the immersion heater circuit connects to the boiler, you will need to retain the existing switch.

(You should have an FCU somewhere to fuse the immersion heater circuit down to 3 amps for the boiler, but it might not be switched.)
 
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I have another switch for this circuit near the boiler. I will check it tonight.
If it is not a 3amp switched fused connection unit I will change the switch so it is.

If I do this, can I then get rid of the switch? Which is best practice... connection unit or blanking plate or something else.
 
If I do this, can I then get rid of the switch?
Yes.
Which is best practice... connection unit or blanking plate or something else.
You can get connector plates which are just connectors on a blanking plate or

ordinary connectors or other acceptable joints and a blanking plate.


If the switch was just interrupting the supply between the CU and the immersion then (L,N&E present) you could fit a socket if it would be useful or look better.
 
To help us understand a bit more, why is a blanking plate far more desirable than a switched fused spur unit?

Is there a particular reason you don't want the switch where it is?

You must have a switched fused spur unit with 3 amp fuse reasonably close to the boiler.

Photographs would be very welcome here.
 
The boiler is in the airing cupboard. I have just checked and there is indeed a 3amp fused switch in there.

The reason I want rid is that occasionally visitors (it has happened once so far) will turn off the boiler when trying to turn lights on/off in the kitchen.
As you go through the door from the lounge to the kitchen on the right is the switch for the lights and on the left in exactly the same place and height is this switch! :evil:
 

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