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This is for a double garage made of breezeblock. There may be an universal beam above the car door, or there may be a lintel, depends on how the calculations work out, as above the lintel will be one end of another beam which holds the roof. The beam is much narrower than the 215mm wide blocks...

.. although then the sensor won't be active when the alarm is off. But I can live with that if there's no better solution.

It's set as fire.... ok so obvious.... so setting it to a normal sensor will probably get me my result?!

Hi I've got a Scantronic 9651 alarm fitted to my workshop and I recently wired in a fire detector. Hitting the fire detector test button triggers the alarm keypad to start beeping, so the alarm is detecting the test but the alarm box does not sound. I assume I then that fire detectors trigger...

Thank you. I ordered one now.

My Scantronic manual suggests that a fire detector can be connected to one of the hard wired zones, but I can't find any on Google. What exactly are they called? This is for my workshop, so a loud alarm sounds if there's a fire, and can be heard across the garden in my house. Thanks!

I retried connecting relay direct to the bell outputs and it did work, so I don't know why it didn't work the first time I tried. So everything is solved and no need for transistors. Thanks for the help even though my first premisis were all wrong.

I tried connecting a relay! It didn't work until I did it via a transistor.

The outputs won't power a bell, not even a relay, they are too weak, the voltage just drops as soon as a load is applied. So you would need a transistor, but a standard transistor requires positive current to switch on a load, so now you have a relay that is continuously energised.

Thanks for all that info. This is all in aid of connecting an aux strobe and siren both of which are simply activated by 12v. The scantronic won't power a relay directly. Hence I set mine up that the bell output powers a transistor which then powers a relay. My concern is that the relay is...

I have a Scantronic 9651. The manual does say 12v normal going to 0v in alarm, though my multimeter reads 12v normal, nothing in alarm, but I will recheck.. that if it goes to 0v in alarm then problem solved.

My Scantronics alarm has a bellbox output that is 12v when the alarm is set or unset and the 12v is removed when the alarm is triggered. This is opposite of what a simple 110db 12v siren needs. So when auxilary security devices are wired to an alarm which require 12v when the alarm is triggered...

I've got a bunch of wireless alarm sensors left over from low cost DIY alarms that had to be replaced. You might know the sort of Chinese made alarms that you get on eBay. A lot of them operate on the same frequency, but I have no idea how they actually communicate over that frequency or if...

Yup I just thought of that. The comms output can also be reversed to go positive when alarm is triggered, so that should work. So alarm is all sorted. Hopefully this alarm will be more solid than the flakey DIY one's I've tried.

The alarm is all working now, got my zones and entry and exit routes set. I only want my alarm to trigger off a cheap SMS module which requires a 12v signal to trigger it to send an SMS. Is there any way to set the outputs of the alarm to go from 0v to 12v when the alarm is triggered? Without...

Ah, I've found my answer in the manual! Oki onto next step of config then. So far so good.

Hi. I'm trying to set up a scantronics 9651 alarm. I have electronics experience, but never done a professional alarm. I know the manufacturer won't provide any support so wondering if I could ask some questions here. Only the one question for now, I can't find in the manual how to disable a...

Are there any alarm panels that are accessible via http:// as opposed to via a phone app? You know like some CCTV systems, or your home router are accessible from a local IP address like http://192.168.1.50. This is to provide protection for a small business unit. I don't need the http access...

Hi Burnerman. You are right that people often jump to serious solutions and I should find the exact location of the water entry. The gap between the floor and the prefab panels was sealed and everything was dry until the recent rains. But it does appear to be coming thru in one place only. But...

Might just do that. Prayer and hope seems to work for lots of people!