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Don't get me wrong, what you are suggesting is perfect. Just thought I'd try save you some time

Don't cut the dpm, how much does the floor need to come up? The cavity area is so close to the door that I wouldn't worry about chopping out foam etc... Just prep the floor, tack the membrane down and screed over

Shouldn't have had the walls skimmed over, they are able to hold more weight without being plastered

Get a decent blade AND try cutting them upside down :X

I would suggest using Dow Corning 785 , get yourself some silicone tools from SF , put a nice thick 8mm bead the whole way round. If the surface to be sealed is completely clean and grease free, you shouldn't have to do the job again for a while.

Scotch bright pad and an orbital sander

You can head to wickes and purchase some latex floor leveling compound, be sure to remove any large snots from the sub floor and seal accordingly. It's much easier than removing all that old adhesive but Rembrandt your new finished floor will be between 5-10mm higher

Did the cracks run parallel with a joint in the substrate? I'm guessing it's a partition. Sometimes this is caused by shrinkage/ expansion in the timbers as mentioned above

I've overcome worse with rapid set. Just be sure to start at the most proud part of the wall,and work DEAD level from there. You only need a solid bed around the bath/shower, and where any fixtures and fittings are going. I would be happy to just D&D the wall where it runs out. Just my opinion...

Hi Steve what adhesive did you use? I would guess a ready mix or a cheap rapid set. It could be due to cold weather (check the correct operating temp for the adhesive you used) I would suggest cleaning up and starting over. I only ever use mapei adhesive. Be sure to use flexible, suitable for...

Yorky fittings, your not a plumber then :P Solvent weld as opposed to what? Lead? Pushfit?! :x looks as though this job went on for a while! Hope it'sall finished now lol