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You don't need a steep fall anywhere. If you have a small fall from the shower tray and then a steep or small fall you are golden. You'd even be alright if the pipework was horizontal (no fall) for a small distance.

No problem with doing the ceiling first, but do the skirting boards and other woodwork before the walls, or at least the parts of the wall near the woodwork. Its quite easy to neatly cut-in the wall paint above the skirting boards, but rather hard to paint the top of the skirting boards without...

Did exactly the same thing - painted over a yellowed gloss staircase with Dulux Satinwood. 1 coat of Zinsser Cover Stain and then the Dulux over the top. Job Done.

Eh? It's simple: buy white paint and roller/brush, dip it in the paint and start painting. If you can't estimate how long that will take then I suggest hiring someone else to do it

Zinsser Cover Stain for everything

I'd suggest this as a pinned thread 1. The plumber asks you what you think the problem is. WARNING SIGN. I have several examples from personal experience, so I will give just one. Boiler not working, plumber turns up, has a rummage round and then asks you what you think the problem is...

Well, you can be too health conscious - you sometimes have to balance it against costs and your relationships in this imperfect world. Your boyfriend is maybe trying to save a fair few quid (maybe hundreds) of the family finances. He is lucky, my wife used to check every ingredient on every...

I've painted over much worse than that (although hard to tell how uneven it is from the photos) with Zinsser Cover Stain and then put scrubbable matt emulsion over and you can hardly tell without peering closely. This was on walls though, and the angle of the light coming from the ceiling light...

I've used both products to prime over old gloss paint and coverstain adheres to the surface much better than 123. Even if you sand the surface first you can scratch off 123 with a fingernail. No idea about over silicone. Coverstain is white spirit based so you do have the added hassle of...

Hi, I've almost completed my decking frame but noticed a couple of potential issues which I want to address if possible before putting the deck boards on. 1. Joist hangers. I lifted a couple of joists out of their hangers today and noticed a fair bit of rust on the bottom sections which...

On vertical joints, I'd rake out the entire thing up the the adjoining horizontal joints. On horizontals, I'd just remove the crumbling bits and bits that come out with a bit of coaxing. An SDS drill with a mortar rake attachment will make it miles easier. Masonry paint will be fine

I just bought a bulk bag of gravel from Wickes. It listed the amount in terms of coverage (11m2 at 5cm depth). I thought the price was a bargain (£41). Cheaper than the local builders' merchants. Delivery was a hefty £30 though. BTW Travis Perkins and Wickes are the same company.

Easiest way is a brush in polymeric resin jointing compound. But they vary widely in their effectiveness so I would read some reviews. Not cheap either. Are your pavers cemented down or just sitting loose on a bed of sand? If they aren't cemented down then you'd be better filling the joints...

I don't need or want help from RGIs after experiencing them on this forum and in real life, would rather ask my mum. Looking for advice from Diyers only. I can do this anyway, just wondering if anyone has a brainwave to make it slightly easier.

Thanks, do you have any information about these fittings, e.g. key words I can search for on a search engine? I doubt most RGIs would do an acceptable job.

Hi, I have a condensing boiler with a soak-away and want to plumb in the condensate pipe to the waste pipes and do away with the soak-away. The only way I can see to do it is to run a pipe external to the building from the room with the boiler in it diagonally to meet with the outside wall of...

I think having a hand rail and a fence so close behind it will look a bit weird. If the fence foundations are an issue you could just dig out where you wanted to put the posts until you hit the concrete of the existing fence foundations and fill with concrete to make a 'pad' at ground level...

I wouldn't have thought small stones would be a problem if using turf. Seeding directly onto it would not be ideal though. I had plenty of small medium sized stones in the soil and put a couple of inches of top-soil on then seeded it and it was fine. So turf should be fine because it comes...

I've never found it particularly difficult to get a good result with it using a brush. It can drip but wouldn't say its very prone to dripping or brush marks. I think those comments come from the US where I think the formulation is different and designed for spraying.

Could think of a lot of other things that are a lot easier to smuggle back to blighty that are a lot cheaper over there. Jewelry, electronics?