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I dunno, I thought you explained it perfectly... I just already posted my wild guess before I saw your more detailed response

Ah!!

Excellent! Thanks, that seems like the way to go. Presumably the expansion vessel can go where inlet to the CH system was, and I use some sort of pressure valve from the supply to get the right pressure. Would I put the pressure relief on the fat 22m expansion pipe? OK maybe not that simple but...

It's an Ideal Classic NF Fanned Flue NF260. Can I really pressurise it without any major changes? Thanks, Phil

Hi, I want to use vertical radiators upstairs, but our header tank is in a cupboard on the same floor as we have a flat roof... water level lower than the top of the radiator I want to use :( There's enough headroom to raise it up (by the same amount as the difference between the old rad-top...

I have had the same problem, including repacing the brushes not fixing it, so if anyone's still interested here's what I did a few years ago (and posted in FixYa, sorry): There's an internal fuse in the motor which is not replaceable, but in emergency you could bridge this with some wire and...

Hot on flow side, yes. Hot on return side - check. "Ladder" is lying on its side. Bottom is hot, rungs and top are cold. I have removed rad from circuit, it has constrictions inside bottom pipe as expected. Put plastic hose in its place so I can see the flow. It is truly bad. I need...

That makes sense, but in my case all the vertical panels are cold :( -Phil

It's a mad world. Maybe one day I'll learn how that works. When I get over that I might even try to learn why :) -Phil

Just got back from w/e away - thanks for all the posts folks :D. I like the suggestions relating to flow direction. Not sure how I test the direction but I'm sure I can dig around here a little for ideas. I'm still trying to get the actual instruction leaflet from B&Q so I guess that should...

Greetings, I have just installed a Vertirad from B&Q. Looks fine, was cheap, but when I installed as shown in the pics on the website - both taps at the bottom, the bottom pipe becomes toast hot, the panels above warm for a few inches, then further up it's cold. Seems pretty obvious what's...

Ah, er, yes, I've still not got around to replacing that motor :lol:

Yes, but if you turn the machine upside down, it's easy to remove, then it's easy to dismantle it - four torx screws and the back lifts off. The fuse is on the plastic plate at the front.

The cheapest I found was 170 ukp from a local retail outlet - by mail order cheapest I saw was about that, plus P+P. I would try shorting out the fuse and trying that first, because if you buy a new motor and find the controller's also blown, that'd be such a bummer. I kind of wonder why the...

If anyone's interested, I did bypass the internal motor fuse, to see if that was the only fault, and it's turning away happily now. I will, of course, get a new motor soon.

That reference I put up earlier has taken the final fullstop as part of the URL, you'll need to knock off the trailing . to make it work: http://homepage.mac.com/jpelling/page3/page16/page16.html Sorry.

I've just been back to get some numbers off what I think's the internal fuse. I got 15AM 253A 04F9S, 04FGS or something similar, it's not too clear. I couldn't find any google hits for any of it. It's in the circuit for pins 4/5 though, because if I short it, the open circuit goes away. I think...

Dude, I just went through the same. Luckily I found this guy's pages: http://homepage.mac.com/jpelling/page3/page16/page16.html. Ok that really looks like spam. Anyway, I replaced the brushes, but noticed that one was not shiny as expected, but matted due to severe arcing in it's final moments...

Ah, that's a relief. Thanks.

I assume your tap water is still hot? If so, it's most likely the stat on the Mira is faulty, or the associated valve is stuck. Ok, not very helpful.