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Hi folks, I've swapped a PCB before on this boiler as well as the diverter valve and head and an iso valve- all with the great advice given here. The H-E code I am getting suggests the PCB had died again. Now, are there post and pre XF PCBs for this boiler? I can't recall. My serial number...

Happy New Year indeed Terrydoh! We're toasty warm again. Thank you!

You flipping beauty!!! That's it!!! Operator error- I've never been happier to have my mistakes highlighted!!! Thank you!

Yes, the diverter valve and the six pin plug into the PCB. I checked that before I powered up. If only!!! Three wires to diverter valve- red, purple, grey. I did fully remove the PCB and move it well out of the way.

Thanks, really appreciate it. I've tested the fuse in the PCB too. It's fine unfortunately.

The all purple loom is the comms lead? It is connected and all looks good to me. I kept them our of the way when I worked on the water.

I have just tested the terminals at the rocker switch and there was no voltage. So I removed the plug at the PCB end of the two wires (red & brown). Those two terminals gave no voltage. Is it another PCB failure?

Yes! I've already replaced on PCB on this boiler. The electrics were fine before I stripped it down this time. Getting 230v at the plug just before it goes into the PCB.

When the socket is connected to the plug I get 230v between N & L3 at the socket side of things, so the connection is good. The black wire gives 50v btw...

I'll get a better photo. The black socket (leading to PCB) has all of it's wires in place. The plug leading from the programmer has from right to left: L3 Brown, N Blue, Earth yellow/green L2 Grey L1 empty The socket it plugs into has: L3 Brown + Black, N Blue, Earth...

Where should black wire go?

Hi folks, I have a an ideal isar that I had to strip to repair a water leak on (iso valve) and on re-assembly, the control panel is dead. It is operated by a Plumb Center 5/2 day timer, that is switching on. On closer inspection, the feed from the timer goes into a black connector (photo...

To be fair, after all the advice given here it was a simple job. I'm used to working to greater torque settings, but being gentle and following the instructions carefully meant no nasty surprises. Had I not been given the advice I have been I'd have been up the creek without a paddle!

New diverter fitted. Heating behaving, hot water hotter than before and boiler much quieter! Thank you to everyone who has contributed. You have really helped me out.

I am sure a more talented worker than me could do the ISO valve method. I'll do the long hand method as I'm heavy handed. Thanks again.

I am really knocked out by the advice I have received here! Absolutely brilliant! Thank you! The actuator head seems to be working well when triggered off the valve. I plan to buy this...

Right then, I have a grey head actuator and I have removed it from the neck that holds the valve. The Actuator pin on the valve is really stiff. I presume I need a new cartridge valve. How do I test the motorised head? Shall I fire up the heating, switch between DHW and heating to...

Yes, that's what I was thinking... Perhaps the two isolation valves just need swapping over.