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Further to my recent posts above, I’ve bought some fittings and cable etc to complete my project, but one thing that has confused me already is with the batten holders and getting the cable into the fitting itself in a way I originally planned. I bought three BG White Bayonet cap (B22)...

I was thinking 3 separate cables out the junction box to the three fittings, but what you suggest makes sense actually: one cable out the JB to the repositioned (central) light and then running one daisy chain off the central light to one end of the loft. Then a second wire out the juncction box...

Thanks, ideally I would have just daisy chained from the existing light fitting and done without the junction box, but because the light fitting isn't in a great location I want to move it. The lack of slack in the exisiting cable means I can’t move the light without extending its wire, hence...

I was thinking 4 because there’s the cable coming in and then 3 cables coming out, so 4 in total?

I’ve never wired a junction box with this many connections, I’ll pick one up and have a look what’s inside…. but in my head I was thinking I need a 4 way (4 ‘ports’ for the cables in/out) as I’ve got 1 cable feeding in and 3 then feeding out to the lights, and would mean I would be connecting 4...

Thanks for the replies all, I’ll get some bits and have a go. In response to the LED suggestion I’m just going to go for LED bulbs similar to the one I’ve got up there already. I’ve just replaced a LED Batten in the garage that’s been used daily but has gone pop in under 3 years, at a cost of...

I live in a new build with one light fitting in the centre of the loft (as shown in photo) controlled by a switch on the landing. I’d like to add two additional lights at either end of the loft. Ideally I’d like to also move the existing light fitting a few feet or so as it’s in an inconvenient...

This is what’s puzzling me as I’ve dismantled all internal components and all the seals are in good clean condition with no signs of wear. Plus the water doesn’t leak into the bowl at any time, other than when the fault happens, which is perhaps 1 in 10/20 flushes. A press of the flush buttons...

Any suggestions on alternatives?

That was my intention, so I emailed a couple of websites such as bathroomspareparts and they all told me to use Grohe components as they are pretty specific for the Grohe frame. Looks like I’ll have to replace the internals on all the toilets and hope it fixes the issue. 300 quid down the...

The buttons work on air via a tube. I’ve tried blowing down the tubes and they’re all clear, plus they work the flush when you blow down hard enough.

Hi all I live in a 5 year old new build property with Grohe concealed cisterns on 3 separate toilets. Over the last year or so the toilets have all started with the same fault - namely the toilet flushes as normal, then continues to flow into the bowl instead of refilling. A further press of...

Ok, well 24. But still….

Thanks all. I appreciate your help. Managed to get it all back together using a choc block, and it is working, however I’ve taped it up out of use just so we can have the power back on, as it was a complete mess behind it. Hundreds of wires with it being 3 gang, and hardly any space in the back...

John Further to your post - if I terminate all the earths in a 30A (30A is all I have in the garage) choc block, then run an Earth from this to the back box and another from the block to the face plate would that suffice?

Hi Colin 3 hours later and I’m struggling and I haven’t had a brew yet….! I’ve bought a new socket, connected all the live wires but can’t fit all the earths into the faceplate Earth terminal. I also now can’t get them all into the Earth at the back box as it’s too fiddly..!! Can I split them...

Thanks. I’ve emailed them. Will see what they come back with. Sweet FA if memory serves.

Thanks for the reply. I’m emailing the developer as we speak. Do you happen to the have the relevant section in Wiring regulations to hand that I could include in the email?

Ok so for this switch in particular, that I was hoping to replace today, is the quickest way to make it safe by taking all the earth wires that are terminating at the back box and attaching them to the Earth connector on the faceplate? The other switches I’ll have to live with until I can...

So is the work they have done technically illegal? Or just ‘against regulations? Just wondering how much power I have in terms of getting the developer back round to sort it instead of having to do it myself. I take it all metal power sockets should be earthed as well? I haven’t checked them...