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I have a 1930s house with all single-glazing in South London. This is a painting problem but I have to explain the context. I have decided to fit all these casement "lights" (which I believe is the correct term) with vacuum glazing. This involves routing to make the lights' rabbets deeper and...

Thanks. These are the paints I've bought so far. Primer: Leyland Trade Wood Primer Undercoat: Leyland Trade Undercoat (oil-based) Topcoat: Dulux Trade Weathershield Exterior High Gloss White (glad to see you give Weathershield your thumbs up) I had to take out a mortgage for the latter: £55...

OK, thanks. So is the idea that I basically divide the different parts of these frames and sashes into two categories: - some areas, where I'm going to strip all the paint off, back to the bare wood, and apply primer (then undercoat ...) - the other areas, where I'm maybe just going to...

Hello, I have a 1930s semi. I'm on the point of renovating the casements, all solid pine, and possibly never repainted since the house was built. I will be replacing the existing (single-glaze) panes by vacuum glazing panes, and I'm also going to install weatherstrip (AQ21) round the edges of...

That endorsement helps. Interesting: because I will inevitably be painting into September, October ... and it appears that oil-based paints can become slower to dry in colder weather: not a problem for the sashes, which can be dried indoors, but the fixed frames will be trickier: Rustins seems...

I'm asking this question because I've literally spent a day trying to find the answer ... but have become totally baffled. I'm repainting some woodwork in a 1930s house, starting with the casement window frames and casement sashes. I've taken the decision to use OIL-BASED paint, so that should...

Interesting... I did't quite catch what they're doing exactly. One problem there is that my least favourite power tools in the entire world are circular saws and routers. I only ever use my router in a router table arrangement (and don't have a circular saw). I would never use a circular saw or...

I did look at the competitors before committing. LandVac seemed the clear winner. Fineo as I recall seems to have some sort of marks in a grid all across the pane: not very noticeable, but there. Also from the specs point of view it just wasn't as good. I would say that of course.

OK! Where is that? "Your projects" I mean: I can't find any such link in relation to my account here... Long story short: what's really inspiring about vacuum glazing is that it means, in a situation like mine, where my South London semi has something like 53 panes, all of them casements (no...

Hello, Floundering non-professional here. I am restoring some 1930s wooden casement windows (i.e. "casement sashes" attached to the fixed frame with vertical hinges) in my house. This involves replacing the panes of glass with vacuum glazing and also routing a groove round the outer edges to...

Dear all, I wonder if anybody's got any ideas about this (or whether something similar has previously been discussed)? I have a 1930s semi with virtually all windows being casements. All are the originals: wooden (single-pane) casements and fixed frames dating from the 1930s. I have ordered...

Sorry, really showing my ignorance here, but with a "no-neutral" switch, as in my case, what do you mean by "it would go at the light fitting"? Do you mean somehow attached to the ceiling pendant? Does this mean that you have to wire it up in the wires above the plasterboard of the ceiling? Or...

I went and had a look at that site. I'm a bit puzzled what those illustrated little devices actually do. Do they sit inside an existing light switch? So do they contain a battery? How do they in fact interact with the switch itself? The site really doesn't illustrate how these devices work. Bear...

Pretty lazy comment. You obviously didn't bother reading the next post after Harry Bloomfield reminded me of the (obvious) situation in a light switch. More likely you **did** read it but are determined to rant anyway to show what a saddo you are.

Thanks, this is helpful. The answer to this question is: 1) There should be a simpler "shoe-in" "no-neutral" programmable timer of the kind I've described. 2) I'm violently hostile to all this Alexa carp. But I've done a bit of searching and it seems like I may have to bite the bullet and go...

Original post "I'm not talking about timers which control floor-standing lights which plug into the mains: I have these already". And there's an added complication with these things: 2 of my plugged-in lights are "touch-switch" controlled. So in fact a bog standard mains timer device doesn't...

@Taylortwocities Yes, several of the 1-star Amazon reviews are fuming about the inability to cope with low-energy bulbs... when most bulbs in UK are now low-energy. Including mine. Also, this is "programmable" only in the sense that you designate for how many hours (between 2 and 8, seemingly)...

@Mottie yes, that's my understanding, even if I didn't express it clearly enough. ... and... any views about how the device on the linked page in fact works?

Thanks... just to clarify, in view of Harry Bloomfield's point: does this work with just "switch wire going in and switch wire going out?" I.e. is it really just a drop-in for a standard switch? Obviously if that is the case, it must have the ability to cut off its own power supply ... so to...

I'm not quite sure what the point of that "lesson" might be. Maybe you should re-read my question. I know the difference between neutral and earth.