Search results

Thanks all, yes spud wrench seems to be it. I was thrown off and was looking for a tool that would fit the shape perfectly. However, the square end of the ordinary radiator allen key seems to work perfectly well at grabbing the lugs and driving it tightly.

How odd, is there not a tool which fits this exactly then. Is this shape just designed for a number of tools to fit into it and for the tool to grab the curved lugs as you turn? My radiator hex tool does have groves in. However, the hex is just a little too big for the tails. So it doesn't go...

Thanks Mottie, I did notice these stepped keys but they are also hex shaped, where as these tails have a rounded socket.

I'm stumped with this unknown socket type. I've bought a manual valve + lockshield set. I expected the tails to use an ordinary radiator tail allen key, which I have. But it's this shape instead. Does anyone know the name of this? Hopefully I'll embarrass myself with how common and well known...

Thank you Notch for clearing this up, I'll take this advice on board (y)

Thanks Notch, Would it be fair to say that standard window sizes aren't really used the in the building industry in a big way then? It's all bespoke, even in new builds? I'm assuming this may be because window openings will have slight variations due to relatively large tolerances of mortar...

Thanks for your replies. Oh yes, I'm just searching materials and it's likely I wouldn't be getting these from the local DIY chains. So I'm not going mad? I had hoped I was missing something obvious. But as they are made for different brick sizes this makes sense and it's not necessarily me...

I'm researching materials for a future extension and I'm looking at standard sized windows. Considering a house brick size is 215mm in length with 10mm joints I'm struggling to understand how a 610 X 1010mm is available as a standard size from places such as Wickes. How is this width an option...

Thanks for explaining that John. That does make sense. I'm not sure why or when it was added as a spur. I'm tempted to say it was like it was when the house was built in 1982 because the cabling and installation looks like all the rest. Unless it was originally a separate circuit for an oven and...

It sounds like I'll go down this route assuming the electrician I hire agrees too. But out of interest, would a 32amp DP switch solve the debate entirely? They are available but not in the range of switches that I'm using. So how about using a 45a DP switch instead of the 20amp DP? As the ring...

The shorter piles will give a smoother finish and work best on smooth surfaces such as plaster. If you have perfectly smooth finished plaster (sounds like you may do if it's all newly plastered) and you like a very smooth finish then this will be the way to go. Though you can't go far wrong with...

Yes that's a good option, these power hungry appliances would be plugged in below the worktop so I would need isolation switches above the worktop. Do you agree with the winston1 and EFLImpudence that it's OK to use the 20A DP switches? Or this may change things now because it's a radial and not...

Thanks winston1, ah I see and I've read about this. In that case is the alternative to use a SFCU instead of the 20A DP? And use a flex outlet instead of the socket to avoid having 2 fuses? Or use 20A DP switches in a grid with a fuse module that complies with BS1363. I was hoping there was a...

I agree, considering the condition of the old plasterboard I would replace with new. Cut out a square or rectangle area that is large enough to remove all damaged areas. Be careful of those cables and cut back so it leaves a good amount of space to dot and dab with plasterboard adhesive (if it's...

Hi all, I know an electrician will be needed for what I propose but I always like to get a few opinions before I go ahead. It's nice to be equipped with some knowledge, so thanks in advance for any advice. It really is appreciated. We're having a new carpet laid in the bedroom above the...

Thanks John and Adam, that does make perfect sense and I understand the logic behind this now. Although I hoped for the existing set up to be valid adding the 13A FCU is a great solution and luckily nothing major needs to happen to the kitchen or conservatory. :-)

Thanks very much for your replies. That's great, and if the worst comes to the worst I just need to add the 13A FCU. However, is there any chance of slightly jigging the existing set-up to solve the problem? From what I understand we can spur off a socket to a another socket without a FCU...

We've recently moved house (well, it was in April and we're still decorating so I still like to think of it as recently). I'm doing some like for like replacements in the kitchen (old for new sockets) and I'm wondering if this set up meets the regulations. It was like this when I got here...

Thanks, I've heard this a lot. Do electricians ignore the instructions and instead do not fit a 3A FCU even if it's stated? Even though it serves no purpose, just to get passed the red tape and so it satisfies regs. Even though there is an existing FCU in my bathroom, would you still recommend...

Thanks for this, so I'd need a double pole light cord as well as using a switched FCU instead of an isolator. And much more complicated cabling with this set up. Why would any manufacturer that make timer fans make people do this :-)