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You have several problems. 1. Cement based adhesive is not compatible with gypsum plaster unless properly primed with SBR or Acrylic primer (Not PVA). Ettringite crystals will form from a reaction between the wet portland and gypsum, and prevent a proper bond between the wall and the addy. 2...

Sorry, your plumber is wrong. All showers now need tanking for the work to conform to British Standards. Without it, you'll invalidate the warranties for all your tiling materials. Only needs a quick coating of the Ardex WPC in the wet areas, which is about £60-£70. Cheaper than risking your...

No. Not PVA. It becomes active when wet and will cause the adhesive to de-bond in wet weather. It will also reactivate when it comes into contact with wet adhesive, you then get a chemical reaction with the portland cement, which produces Acetic Acid which will prevent the adhesive from...

Don't see why they can't email the factory. It may not be available for the lappato as it might not have been tested if it's not intended to be an anti-slip, but I'd be very surprised if they couldn't get the CAT for the R11 tile.

You can never overthink safety. Underthink it and you could break your neck.... or someone elses who may use the shower. R ratings are meaningless for barefoot areas. Instead, you need the DIN 51097 or "CAT" rating. "CAT-A", will be slippery and should only be used by professional ice-skaters...

Lets hope it lasts. sounds like it's being bodged to me! "PAY CHEAP, PAY TWICE....." not cutting costs if it fails if anything, will cost you more. Fingers crossed for you.

Easy. Good pair of scissors should do it :) Only joking. The most common way is to use an electric cutter like the Rubi TC180 (other brands available) with a guide rail and couple of extensions to hit the full width of the tile. But not many tilers deal with tiles this large so you will need to...

"to me, to you, to you, to me, to" *clang*....... ....... .... .. . Bugger!

Florim porcelain 3200x1600mm, but you may find 2400x1200 more easily available. If thats way beyond what you imagined, 1200x600 are also quite popular nowadays.

All sounds like you've done your research and got it all almost spot on... the only thing about your plan I wouldn't trust is the painted wall. Ideally, this should be chipped back or overboarded. If you only have a small wet area over the bath, marmoxing the whole room is probably a little...

Plywood in a wet area??? Not a good idea, disaster waiting to happen. Contact with water and it starts absorbing and over time, will swell, go mouldy, rot and its back to square one. Even temperature change can cause expansion and anything tiled on top will fail. Its been taken out of the...

Take the grout out and silicone. Always silicone. There must always be a minimum 3mm gap around perimeters to allow for expansion movement in the tiles. Without it there is a chance of tiles crazing, cracking or tenting.

I'd go with 3. If it needs it, plastering is fine if you can do it, but if you can't, like me (my last effort had more lumps and bumps than the peak district) I'd personally reboard with plasterboard. Quicker and easier to get flat... for me anyway :)

Looks like a Mini Montolit. The rivet will need pushing out from the pointy end but may need a little gentle persuasion with a hammer. Unbolt the rail and take the handle off before attempting it. The last thing you wanna do is bend the rail. If it's fully welded in there, you can pick a new...

The issue with tubbed adhesive is if the tiles are porcelain, or too large, they will not dry properly. Most manufacturers won't advise fixing anything, even ceramic, over 30x30 I'd personally stick to the rule book and used cement-based, however for ceramic only (not porcelain) and if you want...

Prime the plaster with SBR or acrylic, not PVA. Most tanking kits come with their own but if not, try and stick to the same manufacturer if possible. Tank it, then tile it with a flexible cement based powdered adhesive. Not ready-mixed as it will not cure properly on an impervious substrate.

Personally, I wouldn't go for this guy.... not if he's using PVA. Kinda shows he's not very knowledgable (should be SBR or Acrylic primers for tiling). I'd also be asking him to clarify why he's using plywood when there are better alternatives for an overlay available. Sounds a little on the...

Scrape up as much as you can, then paint a slurry coat over the top. At a ratio of 1:1 by weight, mix 1 part of an SBR primer to 1 part cement based adhesive. Rapidset adhesive will allow you to tile onto it quickly. There are some slurry/gritted primers available ready mixed, like the Mapei Eco...

Yes, B&Q have their own version called Aquadry along with all the waterproof tape for the joints, fixing etc: https://www.diy.com/departments/bathroom/wet-rooms/tile-backer-boards/DIY1102708.cat

Oh thats ok then. Because it hasn't done it in 40 years, must mean its future proof :). Joking aside, plywood ain't what it used to be. Many imports use dodgier glues, thin veneers, oil based coatings that prevent the adhesive/primer adhering. Also its been taken out of British Standards as a...