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Hi Dan, Simon, I suspect you think I'm going to DIY this whole install - in fact, I'm definitely paying a professional plumber like yourselves (and a trusted one, who has worked on a previous system for me before) I'm just getting extra opinions as experts may have more views, and I'd rather...

All sketched out - and thanks for help so far. One more question on manifold sizing. I have a total of 19 rads on 16 loops across the house. I will be running off a heatbank so the CH will come out piping hot immediately. From an outlet perspective, I have a concern that all 16 loops drawing...

Thanks Dan, I've drawn up the options and costs for evohome (for 8 specific zones). It looks like a more intuitive system than the Heatmiser equivalent. The two design options are either HR92 at £60 per radiator, or T87 at £80 per room + £20 per radiator. i.e. separate stats are only...

Nope. The heaters in the main hall are on one phase; the heaters in the other hall are a second phase (but much smaller - perhaps 8kw total); the lighting, cooker and all sockets are on the third. Aha! so could a large switched load on one phase actually cause a voltage increase across the...

Ok, I'm now going to sound a bit dim - what's the difference between the T87 and the DT92 (apart from shape!!) I know the T87 talks to the main controller over RF, and sends over both temperature, plus a 'local room boost' (i.e. turn the dial) But is the DT92 the same, only with pushbuttons...

Thanks for the help so far. I will check the lamp ends next time I replace one (in fact one blew yesterday, so good timing) The Substation was a crazy idea that crossed my mind, but I couldn't believe the voltage spikes were that high. The nearest step-down transformer is only 80 yards away...

Ah - I hadn't even realised evoHome could be used that way! So your setup is to NOT use the motorised heads/temperature sensors (even though you have rads), but to use the wireless thermostats, and the HCE80 zone controller to control the individual manifold valves? A couple of questions...

That's the problem - I haven't been scientific enough to note which ones I changed, and which lamps were from which mfr. With hindsight I should have taken a careful note (especially as half of them are about 20m up from the ground!) The LED failures were what prompted the thought - they...

As part of a whole house replumb, I am getting the copper microbore ripped out, and was considering replacing with point-to-point plastic - i.e. a F+R from a central location out to each room, rather than a traditional series circuit. I believe the plastic materials cost would be cheaper than...

I look after the lighting in a church, which is basically a set of around 20 500w halogen lamps in fairly old open reflectors. The lamp life of these seems rather short, I'm changing them after what can't be more than a couple of hundred hours use. Now I am 99% sure this is just luck, but I...

I'm getting my slate roof tiles relaid (for exterior insulation) and at the same time having solar PV fitted. Given all the slates are being removed, the option of inline panels is a far more similar cost to traditional clamp and rail mounted. The installer is being very helpful - but has...

I managed to get it working well without any new spring. I found that the roller bogey levelling thread (large thick bolt) had come loose so the bogey was not evenly sitting on the tracks. That had caused the scissor metalwork to bend slightly. After fixing that, and substantial amounts of...

Thanks for the suggestions. I am always amazed about the stuff that settles to the bottom of the F&E tank over the years. The system is a mix of rads and pipework between 2 years and 40 years old! I've only lived in the place for 10 of the years, so I don't know how well the previous...

I've noticed some low flow rate errors on my boiler which normally means I need to give the system a clean/flush/redose. Having just bought a Sentinel Eliminator (magnetic+nonmagnetic), I was wondering whether to fit it now before I clean the system... or if I should wait until after the...

I've taken another look - definately no place for a spring on the front bogey. I did find a useful reply from crank39 on a similar issue, but the photos on that thread don't match up to mine. //www.diynot.com/forums/windows-doors/tilt-and-slide-doors-again.309917/ Perhaps a more basic...

Just to close out this thread, I prevaricated for a while then got an excellent deal from NIM Ltd. I have no connection with the company, but Lesley Mason at the company was exceedingly helpful, and I got everything fitted a few months back. If others are looking for something that's fairly...

Hi, I took a look - the Myson actually looks functionally identical to the Heatmiser PRT/HW (which I actually bought first!) Unfortunately, switching the unit to frost mode does not disable the hot water. And turning the unit off does switch off the hot water, but also switches off the...

It's a glow-worm, but that's not really part of the problem (unless there is something very clever I hadn't realised!) Specifically: it has no built-in frost stat, but it isn't sited in the house so that wouldn't help (I have added a frost stat to the outhouse). In terms of wiring, it's a...

Having already bought two controllers which don't really do the job, I thought I'd better ask around! Our house which has a normal (not combi) boiler wired up as fully pumped S-plan (one heating zone, vented HW). The property is empty for periods of time, and also used by friends (who may...

Hi, I've moved into a house which has a Siegenia PSK tilt & slide door - must be around 10-15 years old, which didn't close properly. With some exploded diagrams, I found one of the lower bogeys had come unscrewed and the top gliders needed replacing. All fixed! However, I still find the...