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I've done a little research and wonder if it's all just Siloxane. Other sources are half the price and I'm sure to need a fair bit of it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406638872272

I doubt it, not sure why the tiles are at a different pitch thought they do look it from the picture. That being said there's membrane underneath and I have no water ingression from the skylight area going all the way down, it's where the RSJ is holding the bricks up. I think Woody probably has...

I think you've 100% nailed it. Why the absolute **** did the **** builders do this! I've got a job on my hands here especially post skylight install. Gawd.

There's no cavity tray at all. I know what one is as I've got a bay window where one was fitted later on, but would it be possible here? I'll do some googling in the meanwhile.

House built in 1984 has a side garage but an unusual (and crap) design where part of the garage roof is extended across a door and into the kitchen. So much of the gabel end of the house rests on an RSJ. It's been a long standing issue for water ingression and a previous owner went to town...

One thing I did wonder is if overdoing it with flux and solder how much can go inside and start restricting the flow. It seems unlikely but there are times when you go overboard unsure if the solder has flowed etc.

Yes they are crap at giving out heat I agree with you on that! Anyhow good news all rads are now balanced and hot. I have no idea how, either there was some blockage (I didn't see anything) or the squirtiness through the boiler meant air was previously staying in the pipes somehow and not...

No, someone else mentioned 10mm. Boiler gives 22mm going upstairs. From this the forks are (always 15mm): 1. bathroom towel rad (gets hot real quick, low resistance) 2. front bedroom rad, close by again 2. hallway rad (pipe down the wall), this is one of the vertical ones 3. kitchen rad (pipe...

I believe you're right but I've balanced the rest to the point they're closed. At the moment I have the two identical rads connected. Both are next to the same fork point with the same amount of pipe roughly. All other rads are off. The other rad is getting hot easily, so I make it's valve...

15mm. It's 22mm to the fork, then 6M of 15mm to the rad. At the same point it forks it goes 15mm to three more radiators with a lot more length of pipework so I don't think they are giving so little resistance that it's always bypassing this one. Still I'll try shutting them off completely now...

Established the flow is on the inlet side. I was hoping it wasn't!

I've looked through and I do see what looks like a round disc where it says 'blocker' in the diagram. Is it heat based or is it literally just a block to force water upwards?, in which case it wouldn't matter which was inlet/outlet?

Standard way up. If I close or heavily restrict every other radiator yes it does heat up but not well. The boiler starts cycling, so it's set at 65c but it goes down to like 40c and tries then gives up for a bit then comes on. I assume the flow isn't enough for the boiler and it's protecting...

I found a diagram which might suggest direction is important "blocker" Without any flow it's difficult to know which pipe is flow as used PEX which isn't getting warm. However if I turn the filler on (system now empty) water comes out one valve/end pretty much immediately but with the other...

I've a working system at 2 bar but a single column radiator which will not heat up unless all other radiators are heavily restricted. By restricted I mean so much the boiler cycles the heat due to minimal flow and the other radiators don't get hot. Obviously this points to blockage between the...

It's air, it's took quite a while to really bled it out. All good now. (y)

Not dissatisfied, it is what it is. There's no difference between the doors and end panels on what I have, same thickness and tapered edges etc.

Huh?, I'd want them the same size so there's a universal gap going around the top and bottom and between the doors, all about 2.5mm. I wouldn't want them with no gap on the sides (I may be thinking without pelmets and top pieces whatever they're called however).

Being my first kitchen I had no idea on handle cost, but I know materials and what rusts! I've now bought these, solid 304 stainless at £4 each. https://www.thehandlestudio.co.uk/solid-brushed-stainless-steel-round-bar-style-cabinet-d-handles/

Tried that before I ordered, they don't use RAL codes it's something they make/mix/manufacture on site. They will sell 1Ltr of the stuff they make for about £50 but you have to push - and pick it up (they're not remotely close for me so that was a no go).