Got myself a wee problem. Thoughts & ideas appreciated.

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House built in 1984 has a side garage but an unusual (and crap) design where part of the garage roof is extended across a door and into the kitchen. So much of the gabel end of the house rests on an RSJ.

It's been a long standing issue for water ingression and a previous owner went to town bodging it up. During last summer I ripped all the broken lead and sealant off and installed two skylights. I'm not an experienced roofer by any means but I did what I think is a decent job with the flashing. You can see I chased a line into the brickwork which I couldn't find any negatives in doing (and it was a lot easier then learning step flashing).

I reckon any time served roofer will see the issue though. As the brick saturates water heads down to the lead lip which only rests some distance into the mortar. I probably could and should have taken it further back but I don't think that is the real solution.

During a perfect storm last week (by perfect I mean the wind and level of water was enough to saturate the wall, you can see it's still drying) water entered the kitchen. It is exactly where the outer brickwork sits on the RSJ and it was all along. It wasn't a lot considering how bad the rain was but enough to saturate the plasterboards. It may be running down the cavity which would have the same effect.

If it rains "normally" all is fine, probably as the brickwork isn't getting too wet. This supports my theory the flashing is sound. I can't see any weak points.

The only way I can see to resolve this is to stop the bricks getting wet, or at least slow down the absorption rate enough that it doesn't travel down. If this is the solution how would you tackle it? I read the brick sealants are twinned with snake oil and don't last long. Anything else I should be looking at?

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Flashing is intended to prevent damp from run-off from the tiles, not water running down the walls

Read some of the posts about cavity trays, as that may be your problem. You may want a bricklayer, not a roofer

Repoint any poor mortar joints - there appears to be some in a band at the level of the garage ridge and the wall is saturated below it
 
There's no cavity tray at all. I know what one is as I've got a bay window where one was fitted later on, but would it be possible here? I'll do some googling in the meanwhile.
 
I think you've 100% nailed it. Why the absolute **** did the **** builders do this!

I've got a job on my hands here especially post skylight install. Gawd.
 
Is there any 'Spockets' under the bottom row of tiles? That row does appear to be at a different slope the rest of the roof with a large gap under the bottom edge of the second row. That is likely to allow wind blown water up under the second row.
Sprockets are wedges that affix to the bottom of the rafters to raise the lower edge of the role up.
 
I doubt it, not sure why the tiles are at a different pitch thought they do look it from the picture. That being said there's membrane underneath and I have no water ingression from the skylight area going all the way down, it's where the RSJ is holding the bricks up. I think Woody probably has it, there's no cavity tray install.

I'm wondering how I can best confirm it. The tray would be at or one course up from the original step flashing (you can see the leftovers)? Do I take a brick out there and have a look?

I need to get on the roof once the tiles have dried to have a better inspection. I don't think mortar is missing it's just the brickwork is shocking on these houses.
 
I think you've 100% nailed it. Why the absolute **** did the **** builders do this!

I've got a job on my hands here especially post skylight install. Gawd.
They are commonly missed out on house bumping.

You'll need a stepped tray - ie small segments each overlapping to account for the roof angle. Follow the manufacturers guide or online videos. You can buy proprietary kits or make your own with wide DPC. Don't forget weep holes, and avoid back-falls.

Its not difficult to do as you will be working on small areas of wall at a time.

I'd leave the pointing until after, and do it all at once along with the section above. it will blend in better.
 
I've done a little research and wonder if it's all just Siloxane. Other sources are half the price and I'm sure to need a fair bit of it.

 

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