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And thanks to Dilalio too..... sorry

Thank you Echo the Husky and Gas2Air for your time, expertise and for the effort with dealing with a non-plumber/heating engineer. And thank you for saving me a bundle of cash because if I'd followed the advice from what has been posted on other sites I would have unnecessarily replaced the...

Right then. Joined Terms 1 & 3 together. It all just kicks into life. Rads are starting to warm up. From this I take it that it was my stat that was knackered and that I'll have to control it manually or by timer until I can get a new one. Are they repairable or will it need replacing?

Right off to test this out. Will be a little while.

Just getting my head around what you said. I understand. Pretty certain there's a label inside the SCR showing which wire is which

With HW Off Grey 240/250 Orange 0 White 0 With HW On Grey 130 Orange 250 White 0 Gas2Air - Please explain - bit of novice here

Put it on the actual pump casing itself. I can test again putting probe on valve neutral/blue wire. Cylinder/Hot Water is hot Green light is on SCR - when I reduce temp on stat it flashes red then goes off when increase temp flashes red and then goes green as it should Pressing Override button...

Honeywell ST6400C - works fine for Hot Water Drayton Digistat RF1 and SCR

Right, heating has gone again. I've done some tests. It doesn't look like a loose connection. Multimeter says: Grey = 240+V Orange = 0 White = 0 These tests were done with the water off at the programmer - but get same results with it on. One of the probes was connected to the relevant...

Keeping this post bookmarked - it has some useful info on it.

I'm going to check all the wiring and make sure all the connections are tight but at the moment it's working and I don't want to risk losing heat again. When I do it I will attach it to the wall as well. Thank you for all your advice.

I never even got to open the connection box as when I moved it from under the floorboards in the airing cupboard the heating burst in to life. I'm guessing (hoping) that there is a loose connection in there somewhere but I'm not going to touch it just yet as the house is warming up and we're...

I will, but will have to do it tomorrow too much wine to mess with electrics right now = can barely type (took about 6 attempts to write this) Yesterday I couldn't spell plummer, now I are nearly are one.

Right, I'll get a meter on them as soon as I can. These measurement do I take them from the valve head or from the connection box, or does it not matter. If it's from the valve it's gonna be a pig. Still Learning Yesterday I couldn't spell plummer, now are one.

I don't know if this makes any difference to what I have said about the valves workings 3 Position Diverter Valve Replacement head part is 4000 3916 003 If it is kaput, I've been looking at replacements. Is this a mid-position valve? Do I go for the whole valve or just replacement head or...

It's a bit awkward because of where it is. It's a Honeywell Sundial Y Plan V4073A1039 3 Port. What I have noticed is that with the water on the valve moves to wards auto but only goes about half way across. When heating is on it doesn't move at all. I have read that you can move the switch all...

Problem has not been solved. Looks like it was a temporary fix. Hot water is still coming on but heating won't. The pump appears to be working. The motorised valve works when the water comes on and moves all the way to the right. But if I turn the hot water off the valve stays where it is. If...

Thanks for the advice and that last post made me laugh.

It wasn't deliberate. I was training the rx/tx and forgot about it.

Not to sure. I've wiggled it about a bit and the heating has now come on. Maybe it was a bit sticky. I don't know if it was the doing that to the valve or the fact that I left the wireless thermostat in the airing cupboard by mistake and the temp went up, but after I took it out and adjusted the...