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Thanks RandomGrinch, but I understand this, hence the questions! If I thought they were all compatible I would have dived straight in blissfully ignorant. You've hit the nail in the head though, 'the damage has already been done', we can't realistically take it all back to the lime and...

But the house is already plastered in cement...so it is an option...

We stripped the lining paper because it was beyond salvageable and we have some nasty surprises underneath. So the entire house appears to have been plastered/rendered with a cement product (see the grey on the left) and although most the walls are fine, it has failed on the chimney breast and...

Thanks, that's reassuring, I realise that the regs aren't concrete on this. Do you think I could ditch countertop FCUs/switches for the fridges? They have to be left on anyway, and in an emergency the fuse box is within a few feet.

On one wall we will have three base units each containing an appliance, so I'm unsure where to place the electrics as there are no free base cupboards for sockets. The run will be: Fridge/freezer | Cooker & induction hob (integrated microwave above) | fridge/freezer. Fridge/freezers The...

Under-counter fridge's & freezers and washing machines do not go into a carcass, they are the same width as a carcass but go down to floor level, so they wouldn't fit. A door is just attached to the appliance itself. I think we'll be going for a standard laminate worktop, so it'll be about 3cm...

Our current kitchen plan involves a run of fridge, freezer, sink cabinet, then washing machine, all under-counter and integrated (See attached image) This means that the countertop will mainly rest on the single sink cabinet. To the far right there will be boxed in pipes with a spacer piece on...

OK, so... Run dpc over the outer leaf and fold back into cavity to stop damp bridging the plasterwork. Fill cavity with insulation board or cavity closers (a touch of expanding foam if necessary). Level sill with packers and set with silicone (Any special tips for low thresholds?). Level...

Thanks Gazman, that's reassuring. The floor should be fine, just need to match to the existing painted concrete. I'm aware of the Fensa sign off, although I had read that it was a bit cheaper, so I guess I need to contact the local building control first. I've just come across 'Cavity...

We want to replace our backdoor and adjacent window, I've attached an image of the current setup. We are thinking about french doors, perhaps with a side panel to allow the doors to open wider as the outside yard is quite narrow. The initial quotes I have received sound crazy, along the lines...

Thanks foxhole. The more research I do the more I realise that even if I can get all the right parts it'll be expensive and probably look shoddy unless I get a pro in. I think building the wall out is going to be the most sensible option, I'm just worried it will make the room feel smaller.

Our bath will be in a corner where the protruding wall is not as deep as the bath, so the bath will be proud about 20cm. As we want a shower screen above the bath it ideally needs to wrap around the protruding corner but also be on a hinge to allow access to the bath from that end, as the toilet...

I really cannot find anything comparable online. However, I can see the kits for integrated appliances and they look like they could be applied to any fridge as long as the front was flat. I'm sure if it's ok to screw into an integrated fridge freezer then a regular fridge should be ok too...

Thanks Tigercubrider. I can't make the recess bigger unfortunately, I would in fact already be making it smaller to make my plan work. The previous owner had a large standalone fridge in the same hallway location (under the neighbours staircase), but you had to descend three steps from the...

We live in a small split level house on an incline, extended and divided into two flats, creating some "unique" spaces. In order to create more space in our kitchen for a table and chairs I'm looking to move our fridge freezer. We have two options, under counter or in a recess in the hallway...

Thanks, that sounds like a good plan. I'll get a good mix with the plastering sand and use for both. Who only waterproofer in the first coat? Would the paint not adhere to the waterproofed cement? What's the waterproof additive I need? Would these two from Wickes and B&Q do the trick? Cheers

Thanks The previous mortar was very sandy, and I got the impression that was the issue. Would this product do the job? http://www.diy.com/departments/u-can-waterproof-repair-mortar-5kg-tub/237084_BQ.prd Or is this overkill for a raised bed, given that it's recommended for drains? I was...

First post, hello everyone! We have just bought our first flat and I'm currently making a few changes to the garden. Next to the raised bed with bamboo in it (see pic below), there was a raised bed with a bay plant in it that I have just removed to add a little extra space to the small lawn we...