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The cold water tank is in the loft, about 7.5 feet above the pump, the pump and hot cylinder are situated next to each other on the floor. I'll check the cold water feed to the cylinder to see what gauge the pipe is. There is one valve, but i'm not sure whether that is for the feed to the cold...

I've got a shower pump, the pipes are all as shown in any diagram i've seen, with the exception of the pipe coming out of the top of the HW cylinder, which splits to taps and shower at an equal tee. I'm getting quite a bit of air through when drawing hot water, and this is especially affecting...

The assumption is (sadly) quite right Agile, new kitchen or bathroom plumbing is ok, but this central heating mularkey is just a step or two too far for me. I think i'll leave it as is unless the next gas bill is horrific. Thanks for all your help.

Thanks Agile, To put it simply I can't have Central Heating unless the Hot Water is on with the system i've got. I therefore need to keep the Hot Water 'On' constantly in order to be able to control the Heating via thermostat rather than timer. And there's no way around that without...

Thanks chaps (if, indeed, you are chaps), So basically my system works by heating water at the boiler, which then rises naturally up to the cylinder, and circulates like that. All that happens when i switch the CH on, is that the pump kicks in and sends that same water all around the house...

thanks m_m. It does occassionally splutter a bit, i've had a quick look at the tank to see if i can get an essex flange (or similar in), but there are no ready made holes, so it may be a job for a pro. The feed comes straight from the top in an equal tee with the main hot water, then there's...

I've just replaced a Showerforce Turbo pump which had given up the ghost, with a NewTeam Varispeed 50 (which New Team told me would just fit straight in, no plumbing mods required). The system is set up exactly like the diagrams show, with a head of about 2m for the cold water, and a head of...

I've got a gas boiler, which was previously controlled by a potterton ep2002 programmer. I have now installed a Drayton RF3 thermostat in series with the central heating switch of the Potterton, and obviously run the Potterton switched to constant, letting the Thermostat take control. I'm happy...