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Well, yet another lockdown. But, before we all got sentenced, I finally managed to get everything working. I followed John's excellent advice and moved the Hive receiver to the airing cupboard. This meant that there were enough cables to re-jig everything without having to venture into the loft...

Now...why didn't I think of that :) That is thinking outside the box. The only thing in the garage is the boiler and the supply and putting the receiver in the airing cupboard with everything else is much more convenient for the lady owner. I remember replacing a 40m bundle of 40'odd way cable...

Excellent idea. If she decides to do this, can she still have hot water only? Also, when I get around to adding the additional wire (its a 10m run through a con-block gable wall and an almost inaccessible loft space) how does she turn the Hive back to 'normal' operation? Is it just the same...

Well, here we are, not far off a year later and with Covid having stolen 3 or four months out of our lives. One hopes all of you and yours have come through unscathed. Eventually, having sorted out the heating system wiring in the house and finally understood the rat's nest of wires crammed in...

Time to put this thread to bed. Having got the lady moved into her new house, the dreaded pandemic meant no more work on this system until the restrictions were lifted. I have since stripped out the rat's nest behind the original, defective Horstmann and replaced it with a separate patress box...

Just to update this thread a little... The house move eventually happened a couple of weeks ago (only took 8 months and 3 days) and so far the Hive system is working perfectly for things like intelligent light bulbs and switchable sockets. BG even kindly sent an e-mail saying that one of the...

Thanks for all of that and it makes sense. The interlock in the Horstmann is definitely not set, both plastic screw heads are/were vertical. I say 'were' because that is where the HW was set when she moved into the house but the CH screw head was most definitely angled slightly over...

To answer your last question first, no it is NOT set to gravity with the switches interlinked. As for the Hive, no it can't but before that goes in I will have sorted the wiring to give 'normal' connections to all 4 (OK, 3) switching terminals. You also mention DIP switches. There is nothing in...

Hi Stem and thanks for the rapid and detailed reply. I understand the Hive replacement as I have one I installed on my oil boiler and the one I will be installing in the friend's new place was originally installed by me in her old home. Also, I have read the original thread on the Horstman and...

...but just not yet. I have another thread running all about whether my Hive system will work when I take the whole shebang to a new address. So, that house move has now happened (it's a friend moving house, not me) and this is where my problems start. The 'new' house has a Worcester Greenstar...

Well, what a to-do! The prospective buyer threw a hissy fit and withdrew her offer on Monday when she discovered the office 'furniture' and the bedroom 'furniture', (all free standing, although screwed to the wall for safety's sake) are not included in the sale. What, she wants my knicker...

big-all. Good point. Solicitor says it is like light fittings and mains sockets with charger outlets, as long as you leave 'a' light fitting and 'a' socket, it doesn't have to be the same as the one they saw when they viewed. It's the function that matters, not the form. And the Hub belongs to...

I still have the 2 year-old 'new' thermostat that I took off when I fitted the Hive, along with the original programmer, so they'll be going back on. And, when I fitted the Hive I also cleaned up the rat's nest of wires and chocolate block in the hole in the wall behind the programmer and...

Exactly what I thought. Thank you for the explanation and the time taken to give it and also for the useful link to the factory reset. Hopefully that is the one bit I won't need in this exercise. Once the move is complete (assuming it all goes ahead as planned) I shall report back on the...

And so you see my confusion... The Hive system (as far as central heating is concerned) consists of a Thermostat (which replaces the conventional thermostat and timer portion of the conventional programmer) and a Receiver (which replaces the boiler and valve activation portion of the...

Thanks for that. Can I ask if this is based on personal experience. My concern is that, being the money-grabbing so-and-so's that they are, they will have some secret, computer-based reason why they can't (or rather won't) simply update the details. Brian

I can't be the first to ask this question but I can't find the answer in here, or anywhere else come to that. I self-fitted my Hive system about a year ago and then decided to move home, the way you do. So far so simple. So, having kept the old thermostat and programmer it is but the work of...

Hi oilhead. At the moment, there is nothing wrong with the system, thank goodness. It was a case of putting two and two together and coming up with five. The water was very cool when I showered and so I advanced the timer to heat it up. The boiler was working fine as I had the heating on at the...

Why wouldn't Brian be my real name? But Phmode isn't my real name!! I do know they have a circuit board and very flimsy, but normally reliable, micro-switches but why would I want to go replacing the whole actuator, as you suggested in the first place, or even the circuit board as you now...

Hi flameport and thanks for your reply. My router is having one of those moments so my post missed your response. Edited, having been poking around with my multimeter! So, to answer my own question posed above, it seems that what is holding the actuator in the H position with no demand for...