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It certainly seems to me like it's not sitting on the surface but is ingrained - will have to look up what blue mould is! They say larch doesn't need treating with a preservative but wonder if I should try anyway to see if it helps kill this...not sure if that would help or not though

I was using a pressure washer but only really for washing off, didn't have it on a powerful nozzle setting - will give it a go, thanks

Bit of an odd question really but I'm not sure what to do! We build the siberian larch deck a couple of years ago - last year we cleaned it with ronseal decking cleaner and reviver and it looked brand new again. This year however quite a few of the boards have stubbornly remained green. It's...

I thought the rolls were less dense? Are they a suitable alternative? I'm not sure the sound insulation would be as good

Not if you don't have a rail, as is allowed by the regs and quite common for the bottom two steps. Every staircase manufacturer I've looked at actively advertises this as an option, so it must be widely accepted. So my question really was why is a winder different, to which the answer...

Our drawings spec RWA45 between 400c/c joists - great, RWA45 only comes in 600. Whats the best alternative? I've seen a few that would do it fine, like Rockwool flexi slab, but it's something like 60% more expensive despite looking exactly the same.

My second (and hopefully final) staircase question, now with added newels after my last question. Looking to have this staircase up to our loft conversion, fitted over our existing ground floor stairs: This is how it relates roughly to the existing first floor joists and stairs opening in...

It's quite normal to not have a handrail for the bottom two steps though, and AFAIK that's because most stairs have risers higher than 200mm so you can only fit two steps in the 600mm allowance (as per the regs anyway)

The balustrade does extend to the end of the 4th step, so it does have a guard rail. Tripping on the 4th step of this staircase would be no different to tripping on the 4th step of a straight run.

We haven't ordered it/asked BCO, just wanted to check my interpretation and I'm glad I did! Thanks for the advice, I wasn't aware of that. Thinking about it again, I think even if I could get it allowed, it would probably put some prospective buyers off whenever we come to sell. Might seem...

Hmm interesting, the regulations in Part K seem very explicit to me - gaps, risers, treads, handrail height and widths etc. From a logical point of view I don't see how anyone could argue it doesn't meet the regs, but maybe out in the real world it's different.

I think I know the answer to this, but want to double check. Starting to think about the stairs for our loft conversion, thinking of doing this: There would be a wall running along the right hand side of the main run (ie back of the picture) as you would expect, BUT not along the bottom, ie...

I'm no expert but.....I'm not sure I would regard that as heat 'lost'. Eventually it will find it's way into your room (assuming there is no thermal briding issues). The floor will just react slower to a change in temperature because it's heating more mass, but IMO it would be fine. Could always...

Thanks, but does that mean: A VCL is not required and the foil facing is ok or: A VCL is required and the foil isn't good enough?

As per the title really, not sure if taping the joints between boards is sufficient or whether a separate VCL is required? Seems a bit pointless when the clips for the UFH pipes will penetrate through it into the PIR anyway...

A lot of effort gone into this! It's interesting, thanks. Think you've all convinced me 32A would be sufficient!

I get that completely, but just because that's the outcome of the regs doesn't mean it's logical. Theoretically if you had infinite appliances the regs would be ridiculous, so at some number of applicances it becomes stupid...if you get what I mean. So I don't think blindly following your logic...

Doesn't make sense to me to only apply 10A to all three loads. Common sense to me dictates applying 30A + 30% remaining. Not my decision is it, it's hers :notworthy::censored: I must admit I'm back to the idea of 45A circuit, I don't really see why not...looking at forums, doesn't seem so...

If I'm honest I didn't look in loads of detail, just saw ovens at around 5.5kw and hobs at around 7.4kw, which with two ovens is around the 80A mark. Diversity applied to all 3 appliances is actually 45A. Very good point about house supply! We won't be picking the actual appliances for quite...

All makes sense, thanks. Total of the appliances I was looking at last night would be 82A, you still think that's alright? Like I said diversity says it's fine (just), but I wasn't sure if that was a bit restrictive. Using 32A with smaller cables would make distributing easier as much easier...