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Yes neat 131. Fball technical didn't say anything about 300 over 1200 or 6mm limitation and neither does any of their data sheets but I know real life may differ... I had thought about sun but some areas affected never see sun. As long as it is still bonded then I should be ok? Can't feel any...

All Fball :131 primer over f77 dpm over 1200. Top was stopgap300

Hi, 4 days after applying stopgap 300 slc to floor long hairline cracks appeared. Is this usual. Mix was correct and cracks are not related to trowling or batches. Levels/ depth vary from 3 mm to 10 mm Any ideas or is this usual. Thanks

you may end up with a bit of a scratched up patchy shelf if you try and select parts to re do. Best to do it all as one finish (sand all, stain/varnish all) see my other post too

Another coat directly on top may make the dark patches darker and the lighter patches a bit darker but it may be left relatively patchy still - IMO. You could just try over painting again on top of one shelf as a test (top shelf that may not be seen anyway or just part of a shelf). If you are...

Hi, Probably this is a common question but i couldn't easily find the answer. Shower being built in corner of two stud walls. Studding doesn't line up with chosen shower size for a secure fixing for the glass support track. I "was" going to put green plasterboard for the walls and tile over...

hard to see from your picture as there are shadows on the shelf. Is it stain or varnish? Is it oil based or water based Was it prevented from freezing and was it painted in warn temerature were the shelves free of varnish/wax before and new wood?

I've not as yet but @P.Pipe may have. check his link above.

Drat! But thanks!

Hi, i bought 10 sheets of celotex a couple of months ago at 100mm as that would is what had been written on the plans... However i think should have been 90mm as i now have 10mm celotex proud of face of studding and between rafters. Plan was to add another 25mm insulation and plasterboard...

@chappers. Is this looking like you explained. Put a lead apron in and will cut rubber to dress over. Will put un-cured rubber at cut overhang. thanks

Eggshell will loose its glossy appearance when it fully dries. Longer than touch dry. A few days maybe. That has heen the case with oil based in my experience but can not help with water based. Assume you stired full before use.

Hopefully they will never get too wet or damp as the mdf will swell. you could varnish with any oil or water based varnish over the paint but it will be an added expense and may change the colour slightly. You mab be better off re coating with the FB paint if you still have it and keep for...

A little further now and at the point where it all meets. I'm concerned about water getting umder epdm at this point as i only habe one Eaves tile to cover this bit. Does it all look like its going in the right direction? I know ive ashed before but should i put any lead here or is it not...

Got this that shows what ypu have explained.

Thanks for pic and explanation. the sill i have is even shorter than your picture but i can return around slightly so the architrave ill buy will sit on it.

Yes that was what i was asking in the post if i needed one. Where were you when i asked :-) Anyway i decided to buy gussets and slide in. (still need to do that bit but have them ready) it was visual detail i was after as most examples are finished and wimdows in place. Got hold of an image...

Yes i was planning to do that but as i was still unsure of what to do i figured i could retro fit and slide in after as it was a better use of my time than scratching my chin pondering. :-)

Anyone done similar?