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You should top up pressure when boiler and radiators are cold. Top up to 1 bar ,bleed rads of air , pressure drops ,top up to 1 bar again ,repeat the process until all rads are full of water ,no air present. Run heating and check pressure after it's been on for half an hour. If pressure has...

If the radiators are still not giving water from the air bleed valves ,the system needs more water. So continue using the filling loop to add water until they do.

When using the shower it's very likely that water would ,or could, collect anywhere around the vicinity of the tap ,hence it shouldn't be possible for water to escape to beneath the bath. I would suggest you investigate how the water is getting from above the bath to underneath it ,and act...

Water shouldn't be able to seep through to under the bath. Sounds like a bad installation of the bath. Also, if the tap is turned off nothing should drip from the spout anyway ?

Both should be closed when finished topping up,and both need to be open to top up !

Cut the metal square shaped shaft with a hacksaw if it's that which is too long. The orange lever should slide off the square shaft once the little screw in it is removed. It may need a few taps as limescale tends to make it stick.

Put a drop of penetrating oil on the pin,leave it for 20mins and tap the pin a few times,see if it frees up. If you have a decorators cap to fit the TRV use it rather than the actuator head. By the way ,water will come out the bleed valve for a little bit and then stop when both valves are...

Yes ,fit the plastic parts. The threads need to be sealed with PTFE tape.

I have no idea ,post the above in the UK Electrics forum, one of the electronics guys may be able to help you track one down.

Yes,either bung the cold water storage cistern or drain down. Replace it with a lever operated ball valve rather than a gate valve. Nuts and olives can often be re used ,but a lever valve may need a slight amendment to the pipework anyway ( they tend to be a bit longer than gate valves),but you...

I assume the valve is a gate valve ,( big round red handle) ? If it is ,they are notorious for not fully closing. The gate valve bottom right is used to throttle the flow through the internal coil in the cylinder.

Its a bit like a light bulb that works fine for years ,then it suddenly doesn't work any more. Same with most other electric appliances including pumps ! Your external pump wouldn't be subject to any inspection during a boiler service, it's not part of the boiler. You have no way of knowing if...

That depends on what the competent person finds out tomorrow. 230/240 volts present at the isolators supply terminals ,and not at its load terminals would mean the switch is duff. If no mains voltage is reaching the switch then the supply needs to be investigated.

Have you measured the voltages at the isolator,supply side and also the load side ?

How did you measure voltage with the mains power off ???

Exactly which model shower do you have ,and where are you taking the voltage readings ,at the shower or , it's isolator ?

The pipe in the left corner ,which has bright copper section, just below the wooden shelf , is the feed to the cylinder. See if there is an isolation valve above the shelf.

Is the terminal block held in place with a metal tab into the earth terminal ? If so that earths the fitting.

Start checking at the light fitting that's working (living room),the feed to the other lights originates there.

As cisterns now only need to hold enough water to flush 6 litres ,they are inclined to be a lot smaller than they were. Changing your cistern will not solve your problem. If your flush valve isn't flushing 6 litres there is something amiss with it. The volume of water they flush can be adjusted...