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I thought it was proven that you can encourage the lime to drop out as aragonite instead of calcite, and the resultant slush is too soft to stick well

the red resin is red hermetite I think, and I used a hacksaw to get mine apart.

I had to replace the heat exchanger, so I dismantled it to find out the cause of the leak, those parts are siliconed together, you will damage them when separating them in my opinion. I found a large pinhole on the inner face of one of the "stainless" loops that make the heatexchanger work...

this was the beam I used, bump on the inside edge, slope helps water run off/out https://www.tuin.co.uk/Composite-Profiled-Foundation-Beams.html The bearer beams were pressure treated just to help it along, the overhang of the roof helps keep the worst of the rain off the base except when its...

I went for slim composite beams under the bearer beams, it still looks pretty good.

mix the sand and cement dry, making sure the sand is pretty dry before you mix them. then add water to suit keeping it quite stiff so that it does not bleed over onto the patio too much then trowel in. I saw that on the pavement expert website somewhere and it worked for me.

Ahh, ok I did not know that you could push copper into the same fitting, that makes it cheaper. Both pipes are certainly hep20. Like I say, just a DIYer, I can manage copper piping changes ok, had many years of intermittent practice, but have barely even seen any plastic piping let alone had to...

New idea, is this correct? one each of these three items: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-90-wall-plate-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-/92934 https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/5970f with one of the inserts from this pack...

Ahh, ok, but on one wall I have plastic coming up to the corner, on the other wall I have copper pipes to connect to, I dont see how 15mm copper will connect to the item you show? I thought the upper item I showed would connect into the plastic pipe, but not sure what goes on the outside of it...

I am now thinking the simplest for me is to connect these two together in the corner: https://www.toolstation.com/hep2o-male-adaptor-brass-spigot/p77983 and https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-compression-wallplate-elbow/p29554 some jointing compound between them, and then run the pipes...

Hi, as title, I have some existing 15mm pipe, I need to join some new 15mm plastic pipe (it was flexible so it could be routed quickly under the floor when extension was built, now needing to connect to existing pipe The tidiest would be if I could use a 90 degree adaptor fitting, as best place...

hire a large auger to drill into the roots for each post?

you run the risk of slight settlement in the new bits, meaning that after a year floor will be less level. it is unknown to me how much that could happen, it might not be noticeable, but it could end up being terrible. if the ground piles are always adjustable, then you could keep it level as...

He is Canadian, not a Yank, quite different really. Also their weather can get a lot colder than ours, and we have a lot less timber cladding than they do. My Parents lived in the middle of canada some years ago, the letterbox bolts would get icicles on the inside in the winter. Also building...

My luck with wickes has been very different, lots of splits and wind with all they have sold me over the years, I dont even look at their timber any more now.

The heat loss into the floor must be close to double a radiator heated room if you do not put a thermal barrier below. Consider a radiator heated room, top of floor is at ~20C, base below ground will be at 5-15C dependant upon winter to summer, then when you run 40to 50C water through the UFH...

I like the one given to an american tourist many years ago, roll and mow every day for 300 years...

we have a silicone attached upstand behind the work surface, put in an unknown number of years before we moved in 25 years ago, it is still intact and whole.

You really will need to cut the top 1/2 inch to an inch off the existing strip of cement, do it carefully with a diamond disk cutter or slowly with a sharp cold chisel. you stand no chance of getting it to bed properly otherwise. you need to apply an SBR and cement powder slurry with an old...

yes, something like that, there should also be valves with one pipe on one side and you switch between two pipes on the other side, easier to keep the pump running if you can find one of those